NEW!! SriRacha Stadium by Sven Beyrich: 2020

SriRacha Stadium
by Sven Beyrich

It’s a bit unfortunate that there is no top-flight football played at the Siracha Stadium anymore. It was certainly not one of Thailand’s better footballing venues, but one you liked to go to on a lovely Sunday afternoon, especially if you were a travelling away fan looking for getaway.

I personally hold some fond memories, as I was there on several occasions. Not just for games on matchdays. Sometimes when I passed by I'd sneak in just to sit down on the terraces to enjoy the sunsets over the hills of Siracha, watch a training session or even play futsal on the concrete behind the main stand with my Thai friends from the “Blue Marlins” Fanclub.

So now you may ask, what makes it so special apart from my personal connection?

Well, Siracha is a small town just next to the big Laem Chabang port and situated almost between Chonburi and the notorious famous seaside town of Pattaya. If Pattaya is too much for you, but you still want to be within the reach of it, Siracha it is.

With the sea only 300 meters away, the stadium is located very close to the Gulf of Thailand and there is a nice little park where you can stroll around or sit down watching the waves of the ocean. Also, around the corner there are plenty of restaurants and one sport shop, where you can buy a lot of Thai football shirts or look at old ones hanging from the wall, like the one of Thai Farmers Bank FC.

All in all, matchdays in Siracha were very relaxing and enjoyable, although Siracha FC lost most of their home games. The most remarkable home win in the history of the club was certainly the match vs Bangkok Glass, when Siracha’s goalkeeper scored the winner in added time.

The other good things about the stadium? Well occasionally you bumped into players and coaches who were watching the games from the stands. Not only coach Haeng and Jaded, but also Michael Burne, Douglas Cardoso or players of the current women’s national team who were playing for Chonburi at that time.

                                               

NEW!! Homeless In Chiang Mai by Robert Scott: 2020

Homeless in Chiang Mai
by Robert Scott

In my dreams Somchai is walking through his rice field one evening and he hears a voice whispering, "If you build it, they will come.” He sees a vision of a real football stadium with 20,000 fans cheering for his beloved Chiang Mai. Somchai realizes that if he builds a football stadium, he will leave a legacy unmatched in Chiang Mai sports folklore.

Then I wake up and wonder where we will play next week!

One year ago both of Chiang Mai’s senior professional football teams were based out of the 700th Anniversary Stadium in the 1995 South East Asian Games park north of the city off the Canal Rd (Highway 121).

By the end of the 2019 season Chiang Mai FC (hereafter CMFC) were playing home matches in Chiang Rai and JL Chiang Mai (now Chiang Mai United – hereafter CMU) had found a new home in Lampang.

Move the clock forward to the 2020 season and both clubs have had to find new homes; for now.

After two years of musical stadiums it is no great surprise that when you ask a Chiang Mai football fan for their favorite stadium the response is usually “Anfield.” Maybe it was Thaksin Shinawatra’s 2004 flirtation with Liverpool but the Anfield club has a big fanbase here in the North.

All of this confusion is a shame as Chiang Mai has some of the best supporters in the country; they love their football; their problem is where do they go to watch?

In 2020, and for the first time, the two Chiang Mai sides are playing in the same division (Thai League 2) and both are potential promotion candidates when the season does eventually restart.

There is the small matter of two local derbies to look forward to. These could be strange affairs as a good number of fans who support both teams. Call me old-fashioned but that is hard to do – it would have been like supporting Birmingham City and Aston Villa when I was a kid….it is not done.

The saga of 2019 is reasonably well known. Through 2018 and until mid-season in 2019 the 700th was home to both clubs playing on alternate weeks. This was great for the local vendors who gather outside the stadium on match days.

Then came the decision to close the stadium for renovations so that Chiang Mai could be one of the hosts for the 2019 AFC Under 23 tournament (it seems like a very long time since South Korea beat Saudi Arabia in the final.) The pitch was to be re-laid and other improvements made. Funds were apparently allocated. But no work was done. In the meantime, both clubs had to relocate their home games.

To confuse everyone further both teams returned to the 700th at the end of October 2019 for their final games of the season after some rather hasty repairs to the playing surface. CMU played out a mid-table none-event against Udon Thani. While CMFC held Buriram to a 1-1 draw to win the League One title for their owners – Chiang Rai United FC; ironically the CMFC equalizer coming in the closing minutes from Chiang Rai United loan player, Caique. It was a bizarre night as the players celebrated in front of a near full house.

Come the start of the 2020 season – the AFC Under 23 tournament is done and dusted. Which for some reason meant that this was now the perfect time to finally start work on the 700th and make absolutely certain that the stadium would not be available for the start of the 2020 season. The insides of the main western stand have been gutted to create new dressing, officials, media and medical rooms. That work is supposed (though honestly who knows) to be finished by July (this year!).

Which left both Chiang Mai clubs homeless before the start of their 2020 campaigns in the second division.

Chiang Mai FC meanwhile had new owners – with control of the club being passed from Chiang Rai FC to BG Pathum United FC. The new owners appear to see the potential of the club and have talked of making a long-term investment.

The story is that both clubs approached the owners of the old Municipal Stadium in the city. CMFC made a much more favorable impression and were granted use of the facility.

League rules, in theory, do not allow ground sharing – although no one in Khon Kaen appears to know that. CMU went in search of another stadium that could meet league requirements for the pitch, floodlighting, media, bus access, changing rooms for players and officials and a secure away support area. Eventually CMU settled on the Rajamangala Lanna University of Technology Stadium south of Doi Saket. More on this later; suffice it to say for now that it is in a rural location!

So as we go on a tour of Chiang Mai’s three football stadiums that could be used by CMFC and CMU let’s start at the 700th as I suspect that is where we will all finish up – if not this season then for 2021.

The 700th Anniversary Stadium. Currently closed for renovations.

The official version: The 700th Anniversary Stadium is a multi-purpose stadium in Chiang Mai, Chiang Mai Province, Thailand, built to host the 1995 Southeast Asian Games and to commemorate the 700th Anniversary of Chiang Mai's establishment at the same time. It was also used for Group G of the football at the 1998 Asian Games – one of the three games saw Uzbekistan beat Mongolia 15-0.

Overlooked by Doi Suthep, the location north of the city is fabulous – with the main stadium sitting at the centre of a larger complex that houses a velodrome, aquatics centre, shooting range, three gymnasia, tennis courts and training facilities. There are two access roads off Canal Road (Highway 121) that will take you into the complex where there is plenty of free parking.

The tragedy is that the last time most of the complex appear to have had any attention was probably back in 1995. The facilities are mostly little used and, in some cases, truly dilapidated.

Architecturally, the 700th anniversary stadium is an earlier version of the newer 80th Birthday Stadium in Nakhon Ratchasima. A continuous single tier, almost a perfect circle, surrounds the pitch, running track and jumping pits. The ring rises on the western side which is covered by a cantilevered roof. That main stand provides covered seating for about 4,500 spectators, dignitaries and the media. These are the only seats in the stadium. The remaining areas of the concrete bowl were built for functionality rather than comfort.

At the north end of the stadium is a large scoreboard. At the opposite end is the SEA Games Olympic flame, long extinguished. 

Neither Chiang Mai club attracted big crowds in 2018 but the potential was clear when CMFC home games against SCG Muangthong and against Buriram in 2019 near filled the 20,000-capacity stadium.

The only ticket office is at the base of the main stand; just on the south side of the VIP and players entrance. When the stadium is busy the queues can be long.

A small club shop is usually set up on desks next to the ticket office – this is where you buy your club shirt – and rather oddly your scarf. Very useful in 30C+ temperatures. All around the stadium people are wearing the team shirt. Best of all CMFC is back in blue after a flirtation with Leo red.

Food and drinks are available outside the stadium before you enter. A wrist stamp gives you in and out privileges – useful for half time refills. Beer and soft drinks are sold in plastic cups I case someone can throw a plastic bottle fifty yards onto the pitch.
The food on offer is Thai street food – of every sort. For me, deep friend quails’ eggs wontons, washed down by a Leo. Football catering at its best.

The Western stand is mainly for families, couples and those who need a seat. The VIP/players area is unnecessarily large and usually empty. Inside the stand are flights of stairs to the upper levels; there is no catering inside the stadium. The wash rooms are functional.

Two downsides to the main stand – the lights that line the roof attract an incredible number of bugs. The stand is also separated from the pitch not just by the running track but also by the long and triple jump pits. So, you are sitting some distance from the action.

On the corner to the north of the main stand is the first of two, sometimes, three groups of Chiang Mai’s noisiest and most fun fans. As at most Thai grounds the drums and the chanting will keep going for all 90 minutes and injury time. With a large crowd the atmosphere is terrific. 

Continuing clockwise we get to the East stand. Popular with flag waving Chiang Mai ultras, and with many non-Thai supporters who love the atmosphere. This part of the stadium is closer to the pitch and you can stand in a more central position. Don’t even think about sitting in this stand. I don’t like looking into the low lights on the roof of the main stand – but it is a much livelier atmosphere than in the main stand. It is also where both teams will come to after the game for the tribal rituals, and photographs, after the final whistle.

Around past the “Olympic flame” we get to the area set aside for away supporters.  There is plenty of space for away fans and the views are the same as from other corners (if a circular stadium can have corners) of the ground.

I like the 700th. I like being in a big stadium; I like the potential that exists for a big noisy crowd. I like to get there early and take in the atmosphere; catch up with a few people that I only ever bump into on home match days but it is always good to see them and hear their news.

Chiang Mai Municipal Stadium. Current home of Chiang Mai FC.

This has been the occasional home of Chiang Mai FC at different times during the last 20 years.

The ground is about 800 metres north of the old moat in one of the older parts of the city; Chang Phuak. Close to the northern bus station it is part of a public sports complex that includes the city’s institute of physical education, with, as is typical, a running track around the football pitch. Jogging on the lane around the outside of the stadium is popular in the mornings and evenings. There is exercise equipment, basketball courts and even petanque. There is nothing modern here and maybe that is its charm.

CMFC have spent decent amounts of money to make this stadium home for the 2020 season; the pitch and floodlights have been upgraded; new seats installed in the main stand, the east stand opened up for spectators and an embarrassment of a temporary stand built for away supporters under the trees on the north side. Fences around the stadium have been covered with CMFC and advertisers branding – in part to stop anyone from watching the games without paying for admission.
The main stand is the only covered area with plastic seats installed in the central areas of the stand; some of the legroom is uncomfortable for anyone over 4 feet tall. The cheerleading and drumming squads gather in the concrete (no seats) north area of the main stand; and also, over on the concrete steps of the east stand.

A temporary stand has been built for away supporters. It is embarrassing. A few rows of metal seats – behind the running track and the steeplechase jump and with a view partly obscured by over-hanging trees. I have seen some poor away supporter stands but this could be the worst. Sorry.

Parking is horrible. Your best bet is some of the small streets to the north and west of the stadium. The access road on the north west side of the stadium is where many people gather before the match with plenty of beer for sale from the local stores. Around the main stand you can buy food and soft drinks. Tickets are for sale opposite the entrance to the main stand.

With an official capacity of just 5,000 (and that would be a squeeze) the old stadium is a far cry from the 700th.  However, the central location makes the stadium much more accessible for casual and occasional spectators who also have easy access to bars and restaurants before and after the game.

Even if the 700th is completed before the 2020 season restarts CMFC may decide that enough investment has been made into the Municipal Stadium to stay there for this season.


Rajamangala Lanna University of Technology Stadium. Current home of Chiang Mai United.

The 2020 home of Chiang Mai United is a rural retreat some 45 minutes north west of the city centre.

Head out on the awful 118 towards Chiang Rai. Be careful of the insane roadworks at the junction with the 121 circular road. Head past the hillside temple on your right at Doi Saket and then take the next right onto route 3044 towards San Khamphaeng.

The 3044 is a gem of a country road – winding its way south towards the 1006 and the 1317. The road runs its full length beside a person-made irrigation ditch. Be careful at night.

About 5kms down the road on the left-hand side four floodlight pylons emerge from the treetops. Turn in the entrance to the college, and left to the stadium.

First thing to do – congratulate yourself on finding the stadium.

The club does run coaches from the city out to, and back from, the home games. Details are posted on the club’s facebook page and on the English language fanzine. In fairness the club has done all that they reasonably can to make the best of their new, rather distant, home.

There is a parking area or you can park on the entry road to the college. Stadium is a generous description. There is an athletics track with a small stand on the west side and a small hill along the east side of the stadium. It is actually rather nice in a somnolent fashion.

The ground holds around 2,000 fans. St Blazey AFC in the UK’s South West Peninsula League Premier Division West has a bigger capacity at Blaise Park of up to 3,500.

Locally there are a few coffee shops, rice fields, farms and forests. Away teams must wonder where they are. It is a very pretty spot. We made friends with one guy who was taking his buffalo for a walk.

That’s the thing about CMU’s new home – it feels like the sort of place you might head to for an afternoon tea or a night away from the kids!

A few kms south of the stadium is the Village Green café and retreat – a really nice cafe and coffee shop with some limited accommodation.

It is a very unlikely place for professional football.

CMU has only played just two games there this season. The main stand is where you buy your matchday ticket – there are a few food and drink stalls; but it is early days and the vendors are still a little – how to politely say this – amateur.

Two uncovered temporary stands have been built on the east side of the ground. One on the centre line for home supporters, the CMU ultras (there are not many) and the drummers. Just on the south side of this, in line with the edge of the penalty area, is an even smaller stand for away supporters. It is very temporary.  There is also the hill behind the stands where the view is free but a little distant. Behind the hill forests rise upwards. A village cricket team would look more at home in these surroundings!

The floodlights are adequate. The pitch less so. Bumpy and short of grass in places. It is probably in better condition after two months of no football and a little rain.

CMU has ambitions to be the Chiang Mai team. It has recruited players and management who were popular at CMFC. It is locally owned. Carlos Eduardo Parreira is the team manager. Players include ex CMFC favorites such as Evson, Pairot, Nont and Surawich.

When the season restarts, and assuming that at long last the 700th anniversary stadium renovations are complete, then it would be no surprise if CMU return to the 700th.

So, when football does restart I cannot with any confidence be certain where Chiang Mai’s two senior sides will be playing. Welcome to the world of Chiang Mai football supporters.

NEW!! Old i-Mobile Stadium (Khao Kradong Stadium), Buriram by Paul Hewitt: 2020

Old i-Mobile Stadium (Khao Kradong Stadium), Buriram
by Paul Hewitt

Buriram FC 4-0 Nakhon Ratchasima FC
25th July, 2010

History
In 2010 this ground was known as the i-Mobile Stadium and was home to Buriram PEA of the TPL and Buriram FC of the Regional League North-East. The venue was originally a typical municipal stadium with a small covered main stand and running track. However it was hastily upgraded in late 2009 and early 2010 in anticipation of the arrival of the relocated PEA from Ayutthaya and as a new home for Buriram FC - both clubs controlled by the Chidchob family.

Today the arena is known as the Khao Kradong Stadium, taking its name from the nearby forest park, and is used by Buriram B of the T4 League.

Stadium Description
As a football ground enthusiast (sorry, not sorry) I was keenly anticipating my visit to Buriram's i-Mobile Stadium. Despite of, or perhaps owing to, its hasty construction it was quite unlike other Thai football stadia of the time. The original covered main stand was still in place but opposite was a vast uncovered concrete stand, decked out in blue seats, where the bulk of Buriram's highly choreographed support congregated. The away end was similarly constructed and on a similar scale yet the home end, such as it was, consisted of narrow metal bleachers, just ten or so rows deep.

Curved metal bleachers had also been used to fill in each corner. The stands were separated from the pitch by an unpaved cinder running track except for the home end which had been positioned immediately behind the goal thus cutting off the track. Since 2010 the idiosyncratic home end has been removed and replaced by a large stand to match the away end, and the old dirt running track replaced by the industry-standard eight-lane Tartan Track.

The Match
Korat enjoyed a successful 2009 season which featured an FA Cup quarter-final appearance in addition to a second-place league finish, just missing out on the play-offs on the final day of the season. The 2010 campaign was an indifferent affair by comparison. The team struggled for form and goals following the close-season departure of star striker Promphong Kransumrong and arrived at Buriram having been humbled 0-3 by their local rivals earlier in the season at the 80th Birthday Stadium in Korat.

I'd be lying if I said I had a crystal clear recollection of a match played ten years ago. Korat were again put to the sword by their vastly superior neighbours, who comfortably ran out 4-0 winners. A disappointing but not particularly surprising result for Korat's 200 or so travelling fans.

The match was mainly memorable for me for the wrong reasons. It was my first experience of heavy-handed policing and stewarding at a Thai football match. I don't think the Buriram authorities had any particular reason to suspect trouble from the away fans but one must consider the deeply fractious state of Thai politics at the time and the divisive, controversial figurehead of both Buriram politics and football.

Umbrellas, water bottles and bags, including women's handbags, all had to be left with 'security forces' before entering the stand. The wife of the time had to argue it out with the over-zealous officials to be allowed to take a baby's bottle in. One would have thought that the presence of our 16 month old daughter was a convincing argument for the necessity of such an item. The miffed Mrs eventually had to be dragged away by no less than three of us as she came close to achieving the notable claim to fame of being ejected from her first ever away game, and before the match had even started too!

My only other memory of the day was of Buriram's owner gingerly approaching the away end after the match to offer some sporting applause. Some reciprocated, others offered uneasy smiles and giggles whilst some of the more sufficiently refreshed members of the travelling contingent threw the odd insult and middle finger.

Surprisingly, Buriram were hauled in by Loei in the second half of the season and ended up finishing second. However, that was still good enough for a play-off place and they were duly promoted along with Chiang Mai FC, Phuket and Chainat.

NEW!! Suranaree University Of Technology Stadium by Russ John: 2020

Suranaree University of Technology Stadium: Home of Nakhon Ratchasima Utd
by Russ John

You never know, your favorite premier league team may be drawn in a cup competition against Nakhon Ratchasima United (formerly Huai Thaleang FC) who are in Tier “x“, (sorry I am so confused about the reorganisation of lower tier football, I don’t know which league they will be playing in next season - Svein is probably the only person in the country that can give me an answer!!)

SUT Stadium (Suranaree University of technology Stadium) is the current home of NR United. The stadium is situated 7 km out of the centre of Korat as you travel out of Korat on highway 304.
Off the 304, a right turn takes you into the Twilight Zone that is the SUT campus. Set at the end of a veritable maze of deserted well maintained roads in the middle of the campus sits the stadium – good luck finding the place, but of course google maps is your friend.

The stadium is a neat and tidy, fairly modern, typical (I guess) university stadium with, I’m afraid, a running track surrounding the pitch. It is a welcoming place, there is plenty of parking and a table outside sells shirts and other souvenirs. Entry fee is 50 bt and you walk through a tunnel to emerge into the main stand - no seats, you sit on the tiered concrete, although there is seating in the stand opposite and behind one goal.

Delicious fresh orange juice was available inside but bring your own food and alcoholic beverage, none is available at the ground. The stadium holds 3500 and many families spread out the usual Thai woven mat and have a family picnic (do Thais have picnics??) whilst keeping a casual eye on the match.

The ground has everything that a typical TPL ground has, a band, one amusing sight was seeing the band huddled in a corner of shade at half time, ball boys and teams come out to the usual fanfare. The nearest I saw to an ultra was a grannie laying into a large corn on the cob during the half time break.

No criticism implied but watching football at this stadium is more akin to watching subbuteo than real football but it’s a fun, friendly place to spend a weekend afternoon at and well worth a visit.

NEW!! Thammasat Stadium: The Home Of Bangkok United by Svein: 2020

Thammasat Stadium: The Home Of Bangkok United
by Svein

Stadium

Thammasat Stadium, or True Stadium as the club calls it. It`s located at Rangsit in Pathum Thani province, north of Bangkok.

Transport

From central Bangkok it`s at least 45 minutes by taxi, which is the fastest way to get there if you don`t have your own car. A return trip will cost you 900+ baht including fees on the toll roads.

If you`re a Bangkok United fan, you can get to the stadium by bus from Thai-Japanese Stadium, the club`s former home. The bus is free, but you should reserve a seat at the club`s website. The bus also take you back after the game, but it don`t leave until at least 45 minutes after the final whistle, so if you are in a rush, a taxi is better. It`s easy to get a taxi at the main road after games, but might take more time after 8PM kick-offs as the road and area are much quieter then. 

SRT Dark Red Line will go to Thammasat University when completed, but after several delays it won`t be completed until 2023 at the earliest.

Matchday Ticket

Tickets can only be bought at the stadium on matchdays. The price is 100 baht at True Stand, which is where most fans are, and behind one of the goals. Tickets at the main stand are 150 baht and 200 at the away end. Matchday programmes are available for free at the ticket counters.

Club Shop

The shop is parked at the fan zone in front of True Stand. Yes, parked, as it`s a shop on wheels. Sadly, the customer service is really poor at the shop. To buy something they write your name and item(s) on a paper. Then you follow them outside where they give the note and item(s) to staff at cash registers, and then you wait for them to call your name, they told me. I tried to buy a keychain and two coasters, but after waiting for more than 10 minutes, and not getting a response when I asked the staff, I just gave up and left.

Away End

The away fans are located far, far behind one of the goals. I have never been there, but I`m told the view is poor. And it`s wet on rainy days as there are no roof.

Food

Lots of food, snacks and non-alcoholic drinks are sold at the fan zone in front of True Stand. There is tables all around the fan zone where you can sit, eat and drink, and you can take it all inside the stadium if you want.

Beer

No alcohol is sold at the stadium, but you might find someone selling from the back of a car. No problem for me as I don`t like beer, and alcohol  has never been allowed at stadiums in Norway except in VIP-areas in recent years, so alcohol has never been a part of the football experience to me. But if my kind of drinks were sold, I would have bought a few.

Parking

Parking is easy and is located between the main road and the stadium.

Overall Experience

I hate the long travel to and from Bangkok, but enjoy myself when I`m at the stadium. I`ve had the same seat for most of my games there, at True Stand, and the atmosphere is normally great. At other parts of the stadium it probably seems dead and quiet except for the games against the big two, Buriram and Muangthong.

Some are saying fans are too far from the pitch, but I think the view is good from where I sit in the middle of the stand. It`s a bit far from the pitch, but I sit at the highest row that`s in use. The upper half of True Stand is closed off by large True banners to keep the fans at the lower half where they are visible on TV. I`ve been told you sit closer to the pitch at the main stand, but have never been there. For most games there are only a couple hundred fans there.

NEW!! Common Ground by Gian Chansrichawla: 2020

Common Ground
by Gian Chansrichawla

Too many football fans in Bangkok spend their weekends supporting a team thousands of miles away, when two unparalleled sporting experiences are right in their backyard.

I’m not quite sure when I realized that the strange blue warehouse opposite the Bangkok Post headquarters wasn’t actually a warehouse at all, but one of the most unique football grounds I had ever come across. Living in Sukhumvit 24, the stadium should’ve been the most interesting feature of my travels, but as an elementary schooler who cared more about Dragon Ball than football, it would be years before I would finally come to understand what an impressive arena was on my former doorstep.

Growing up as a well-off international school kid, my neighborhood only stretched from Sukhumvit to Rama IV. I didn’t dare wander across to the wrong side of the tracks. It was a locality drawn as much by lifestyle as it was by geography, hardened by apathy and class antagonism. It’s a phenomenon and stands as a rare relic of genuine community integration in Thai football.

However, I was nowhere near this cynical (or this much of a Marxist) back in Middle School. In fact, I wasn’t even independent-minded enough to seek out a local team to support. I, like most others around me, had bought into the lie that attempting to build a connection with a team thousands of miles away was a more rewarding experience than supporting your local club, because of “quality.”

My interest in Thai football was limited to peering over at the kits during my trips to the shopping mall and catching the occasional highlights, but without much enthusiasm from my peers, I didn’t actively seek these things out.

In line with that, the team to support would have to come to me instead - and it did when Muangthong United’s U19 side came to play against my school team. Reading the glowing coverage in the school paper as a 13-year-old played a big role in setting me down the path of becoming a writer myself. I would cover the same ‘fixture’ two or three years later, which helped me land the Muangthong United internship to which I owe a lot in terms of experience and exposure.

With the choice clear, I went with a few friends to our first game at the SCG Stadium in 2014. Having had the opportunity to watch a Champions League game at Stamford Bridge two years earlier, I shouldn’t have been impressed by a half-empty 12,000 seater stadium under the highway. But there was something about it which hooked me in right away. It felt like something close, something you could reach out and touch, something you could belong too. It instantly tore apart the idea that supporting a team that you would rarely ever have the chance to see in person was somehow more rewarding. I understood finally that football isn’t about seeking out the team with the best players and most trophies - it is about finding a home.

The result helped too. Mario Gjurovski hit a brace to help the Kirin win 3-0 over struggling PTT Rayong in a captivating attacking performance. It was a game that got us hooked - while the chances were few and far between at that time, we tried whenever we could to return to the ground, and tried to catch games on TV. It was a gradual process, but by mid-2015 I was more interested in the football here than I was in the Premier League.

I became familiar with the stadium grounds and came to quickly appreciate them. The sound of the drums from the Ultra Stand served as a perfect complement to the football on the pitch, and I found myself humming their tunes rather frequently. Later, as an intern, I made a habit of giving a ten-baht coin to a man who graced the street corner with the tones of his traditional Thai flute after every match. The experience of being in the ground, amongst the fans, under the floodlights - nothing one sees on TV can ever match that, regardless of how good the ‘quality’ is or how expensive the players are.

I remember the packed stadium and electric atmosphere when Theerathon faced his former club Buriram for the first time. I was right behind the goal to witness Chanathip’s incredible, single-handed takedown of the Brisbane defense in 2017. I saw most of 2018 from the press-box, furiously typing extended match reports and occasionally daring to question the daunting dragon that was Radovan Curcic as we watched a half-season of sideways passes. I will never forget the feeling when Sarach’s long shot hit the back of the net against Buriram in 2016.

It was a while before I ventured on any away trips, given the trouble with distance and limited public transport to most grounds in Bangkok. The PAT quickly rose to the top of my bucket list when they returned to T1 after their second relegation, and even more so when they hired former National Team boss Kiatisuk ‘Zico’ Senamuang. I made a couple of trips in the second half of that season, but it was one particular encounter the campaign after which really made an impression on me.

Going to my first away game as a Muangthong United intern, I was advised to be cautious, and informed once again of the ‘danger’ of this fixture. Away fans were not allowed in, so I was naturally discouraged, but I knew the rare opportunity to experience the legendary fixture first hand was too good to turn down. I was careful to wear my jacket as I rounded the corner of Sunthorn Khosa road to join the Port fans heading toward the stadium, zipping up just enough to obscure the Muangthong logo on my chest. I was already sweating buckets and the extra clothing didn’t help.

To my surprise, instead of being greeted by the angry mob of Port fans I was conditioned to expect and be wary of, I soon befriended an extremely kind and welcoming group of supporters, the foreign fans of the Port FC Sandpit. To prove the point, Tim prodded me to unzip the jacket and reveal the Muangthong logo to the Port fans sitting on the next table, who jokingly booed and jeered. Despite coming as an employee of their greatest rivals, every person I met at the PAT Stadium was incredibly welcoming. Having just met me, they were kind enough to give me extensive insights on their club for my first long-form feature, or at least the first one I am genuinely proud of, on the club’s recent heavy investment.

It was a totally different ball-game, however, once I entered the gates. Haggling with the security guard to let me in despite donning an SCG-specific press-pass was a nightmare, and was punctuated by the King’s Anthem informing me I was late. I sprinted up the steps and walked into a cauldron of noise and energy which seemed surreal. The crowd was fierce, cheering every dangerous tackle and giving hell to every Kirin player. It had been a long time since they took all three points from their arch enemy on this pitch, and you could sense that this was their best chance.

This passion wasn’t, as I learned in interviewing fans for the article, some crazed violence which I had been led to believe and fear. Their feeling was that of being home, of being a community, and a deep sense of belonging. It is a sense that, no matter where in Thailand I travel, is the strongest at these two grounds - and may be the source of the scorching rivalry between the two clubs.

During breaks in play I found myself staring over Zone C and over at the building on Sukhumvit 24, feeling nostalgic for my younger days and old home. They faded as the sky turned dark upon a goalless half. Three quick goals from Sanukran Sarach and Heberty temporarily quieted the crowd, but Port’s 2-goal fightback rose the PAT back into a crescendo which very nearly edged their side into a historic comeback.

What makes these stadiums truly great is nothing to do with their design, or their size, or their facilities. Both are relatively modest and ironically, both sit below Bangkok expressways. What makes these two grounds unparalleled experiences in Thai football is the feeling you get when the ground is packed and when the supporters are in full voice. Anyone in Bangkok longing for the overplayed Premier League stadium experience owes it to themselves to experience these grounds, and to understand that football isn’t about finding the club with the most trophies or biggest international followings; it’s about finding a home.

NEW!! PAT Stadium: The Home Of Port FC by Tim Russell

PAT Stadium: The Home Of Port FC
by Tim Russell

Ask any foreign Port fan why they chose to support this particular club - certainly those who’ve been around since the pre-Pang era - and chances are PAT Stadium will figure highly in their list of reasons. It may be held together by duct tape in places and often look and feel as if it’s about to fall down, and it may be located in one of Bangkok’s least salubrious districts, but on a big game night with a full house there is simply nowhere better to watch football in Thailand. Here’s why.

Location, Location, Location
One of the reasons for low crowd numbers in Thai football is often the sheer difficulty of getting to and from the stadiums. Bangkok Utd may try and brand themselves as Bangkok’s club but there aren’t too many Bangkokians willing to trek the 45km out of town to watch them, and the likes of Muangthong and Bangkok Glass are just as difficult to get to. The new BTS extension has made Police Tero an easier trip to be fair, but really there’s no stadium in Bangkok easier to get to than the PAT. Get the BTS to Asoke then jump on a motorbike or in a taxi and you’re there in 5 minutes; get the MRT to Queen Sirikit and you’re just a short walk away, and it’s one of the most atmospheric stadium walks in world football, taking in the sights, sounds and, most notably, smells of iconic Khlongtoey Market. Where else in the world can you pick up some live frogs, a pig’s head or a bag of crickets en route to the game?

For many of us, the location came first - we simply looked for the nearest football ground to the centre of Bangkok and checked it out, and our love for the club came later.

The Bottom Corner
Whilst Port’s recent success has attracted much bigger crowds of foreign fans, the club wasn’t always as glamorous and fashionable (it’s all relative) as it is today, and The Sandpit was once the preserve of football nerds who, in many cases, grew up on poor quality niche interest football. Even today in Zone B you’ll meet supporters of Rochdale, Coventry City (bizarrely the best represented English club at the PAT), Welling Utd, Aldershot, Spurs, Gillingham, Southend Utd, Cardiff City and Swansea City, as well as a whole range of worldwide clubs including Fortuna Dusseldorf, Eintracht Frankfurt, Hamburg SV, St Etienne, Lorient, Vancouver Whitecaps, Brisbane Roar and many more.

And Port’s small, ramshackle stadium, where you’re often just a few feet away from the goalmouth, reminds us of watching our unfashionable home clubs back in the old days, when you could have a pint during the game, change ends at half time, leave your front door open etc etc. This compactness and the lack of a running track, the scourge of Thai football, means you’ll always have a good view wherever you are (unless you’re in Zone A and Madame’s box gets in the way), and the opposition goalkeeper will actually hear you when you shout “You’re shit aaaahhhhhhh” at him (and, in one memorable case, turn round and complain).

The ridiculous decision to make the stadium all-seater just in case Port qualified for the ACL group stages has somewhat diluted the matchday experience and made it a lot more uncomfortable for those of us taller than Saruta, and the post-Chainat 2014 booze ban has also lessened the fun somewhat, but it’s still a gloriously shabby, intimate and football-friendly venue, and on a warm Bangkok evening, with the sun setting behind the skyscrapers of Sukhumvit, one of the most picturesque in Thailand.

Fever Pitch
Whenever we interview players & coaches, whether from Port or other clubs, they are always very vocal in their praise for Port’s fans and the atmosphere they create. Foreign players tell us it’s the only ground in Thailand where the atmosphere compares to grounds they’ve played at back in Europe or South America, with the likes of Matt Smith and Dragan Boskovic (in his pre-Port days - and occasionally during) telling us how much they enjoy getting a bit of stick from the home fans for a change.

The noise at Port on a busy night can be deafening, with fired-up, boozed-up crowd singing and chanting throughout; another reason we foreigners have made it our home. And really it’s the fans who make Port what it is - a noisy, rowdy and loveable bunch who make us feel very welcome every week. Port may have a reputation for trouble - for the record I’ve only seen trouble at a Port game once in six years - and yes they are a lot more boisterous than the comatose crowds at the likes of Chiang Rai or Bangkok Utd, and they don’t need choreographing or sponsoring like Buriram or Muangthong, but for fans who grew up watching English football in the 1980s, the idea that the PAT is in any way threatening or dangerous is laughable, and most away fans who visit us have a great time. Last season I even got MTU media guy and occasional Sandpit contributor Gian to wear his MTU staff polo shirt in The Sandpit, and after his initial terror wore off, he realised that he was just as welcome as anyone.

And as a foreign fan, come to Port and you’ll very quickly make new friends and meet like minds. I’ve made some of my best friends in Bangkok at the PAT, and I know many foreign fans feel the same way. As I’ve said before, in a city where it’s often difficult to feel at home, the PAT gives many of us a sense of community that we might otherwise miss out on.

PAT Butchers
In the classic Blackadder II episode ‘Head’, jailer Mistress Ploppy explains to our hero that, when it comes to prisoners’ last meals, “Sausages is all I got”. That episode has clearly been a huge inspiration to stadium caterers across Thailand as, in most cases, sausages - or various other meat products of dubious provenance on sticks - is all they got.

This has been a huge disappointment to me because, before I began travelling around the country to watch Port, I’d assumed the PAT food stalls were typical of Thai football. Sadly this isn’t the case, and only at home games can we gorge on a veritable smorgasbord of Thai classics, as well as chicken nuggets and fish & chips, from the huge number of food stalls outside the ground. Someone even opened a sushi truck back in 2017, before obviously realising that they were way, way ahead of their time and that Khlongtoey won’t be ready for sushi until the 2030s at the earliest. Recommended PAT dishes? I tend to go for the fish & chips; my wife loves the crispy fish & green mango salad; whilst Sandpit regular Dom, a confirmed vegetarian, loves the omelettes. All tastes are catered for, provided you’re not expecting Michelin level cuisine.

Factor in the almost compulsory consumption of cheap Leo, and you understand why, during the game, you can look outside and see hundreds of people who haven’t even bothered to come into the stadium - they’re just sitting outside eating, drinking and having a great night out.

Yes, I admit it, I’m biased. Port is my club and the PAT is my home from home, and for all its faults, I love it. Whilst some stadiums may be newer, more comfortable and better designed - Ratchaburi and Buriram for example - nowhere else has the same atmosphere, the same friendly fans (though Sukhothai comes very close), the same food & drink options, the same accessibility. It’s now almost three months since my last visit, and it’ll be another four until I can go back. And I’ll be so happy to see it again, I won’t even moan about the seats. Well, not until half-time anyway...

NEW!! The Singha Stadium: Home Of Chiang Rai Utd by Alec Peeples: 2020

The Singha Stadium: Home Of Chiang Rai Utd
by Alec Peeples

Located just a few hundred meters from the airport, welcoming arrivals as they enter “The Gateway to the Golden Triangle”, lies Singha Stadium – home of Chiang Rai United. Set against a backdrop of mountains and rice fields, the grey, brutalist exterior is a sharp contrast to the sea of orange greeting you inside.

Founded in 1262, Chiang Rai is a city with a rich history. As the original home to King Mangrai, the first king of Lanna, the local population take their history very seriously. The Chiang Rai locals are as fiercely independent and resilient as they are hospitable and helpful. In many ways Singha Stadium is the perfect representation of not only the club, but also of the proud city in which it’s located – a place that can at first seem staunchly guarded, but peeling back the exterior reveals an inviting locale that embraces its historical independence.

My first impression of Singha Stadium was not overly positive, but back in the states I had spent several years cheering on my local club as they played their matches on a converted baseball diamond. I knew I’d have no problem getting past the rough exterior and finding a second home amongst the Orange Beetles. Indeed, it took little time to warm to the atmosphere - only 2 matches until I staked out what would become my permanent seat, beer sloshing as I sang with the “Behind Goal FC”.

And yes, you read that correctly - beer in hand! You see, it was several months into my Thai League fandom before I could attend an away match. I had grown accustomed to buying my beer at the concession, and then heading to my seat. It was an unpleasant surprise to find that many other grounds do not allow beer in the seats. Fear not, at Singha Stadium 60 thb (or is it 80…?) buys you a large bottle of Leo or Singha, a cup of ice, and the freedom to drink it in the comfort of your seat. I wish I could say the other concession offerings spark as much joy, but they are a bit lackluster. If hunger strikes, my advice is to trust only the french fries.

Singha Stadium fits a little over 11,000 people, though you rarely see half of that other than the premier matches (I believe 2019’s 4-0 thumping of Buriram was the first and only sellout I’ve witnessed). Nonetheless, I do think it’s the best ground in the league. There are no bad seats, and plenty of covered options for the wet matches. Away fans are put in a corner behind the goal, but it really is a great seat (virtually the same view as my seat of choice).

Perhaps best of all, there is no running track! The home fans are passionate even when crowd size is low, and the close proximity afforded by the lack of running track leads to a great atmosphere. Whether it’s the fans giving it to the referees, the visiting squad giving it back to the home crowd, or the home players whipping the crowd up, there is always excitement.

To cover the random bits and pieces - parking is plentiful (though usually gridlocked leaving because it all funnels through a single u-turn), Grab is available if you don’t have your own wheels, and the stadium is about 15 minutes outside of town. There are no bars or restaurants in walking distance, but it’s worth turning up early to beat the lines. Ticket prices for away fans are somewhere in the 100 thb range.

With it’s chilled out nature, welcoming locals, area students putting on traditional Northern shows at halftime, and of course the pretties in the parking lots hocking the latest air conditioner and Toyota promos, a day out at Singha Stadium should be a must for everyone at some point in their Thai League fandom.

NEW!! Leo Stadium by Obb Deewajin: 2020

Leo Stadium
by Sorapong Deewajin

In late October 2019, the Guardian published an article titled Which football team endured the biggest swing between two results? Under the section Stadiums with missing pieces, to my joy, LEO Stadium was mentioned, thanks to nomination from Twitter user Rob McEvoy.

I was delighted to see BG Pathum United’s, iconic, 3-sided home ground getting the shoutout, even though it was just a quick mention. Obviously I’m a fan of the stadium. But not because I support the club or the fact that I live 15 minutes, maximum, away from the ground. No. It’s just the simple fact that, compared to other neighbouring grounds, LEO Stadium offers you the best all-round matchday experience.

I get it; we’re missing a stand. But then, quirky, does a stadium need to be “completed” to pass as a good one?

Towards the end of his career, Paul Cézanne, the influential French artist, painted the Turning Road (Route Tournante). Considered as one of his most interesting works, the piece stirred up conversations in the art community at the time, and like LEO Stadium, is seen by many as an unfinished piece.

An experimentalist and perfectionist all in one person, many art critics argue that Cézanne left Turning Road and moved on to newer pieces. However, it is widely accepted today that Cézanne simply didn’t want to ruin a beauty work with an unnecessary brushstroke - displaying his “less is more” impressionist style. The painting is a fitting representation of how Cézanne saw the world and, despite not being picture-perfect, that was more than enough.

Again, does a stadium need to be “completed” to pass as a good one?

According to BG Pathum United chairman Pavin Bhirombhakdi, there were plans to build a 4th stand, where the land currently belongs to a car showroom, if fans can fill the stadium week-in week-out. I doubt we’ll ever see a 4th stand and I am totally happy with that.

Opposition used to worry about playing on artificial turf but that’s not an issue anymore following the switch to grass in 2018. Our pitch was in such an immaculate state that opponents started to enjoy their away day and we ended up relegated in 2018 - our first season with real grass. Coincidence?

As a tactics nerd, I prefer sitting higher up the stands for the full pitch view thus the South Stand (S2), the cheapest ticket, is my go-to choice. 9,000 capacity, a drop after seats were installed, is an alright size, considering the 2019 Thai League average attendance is 5,699. Although I would argue that LEO Stadium is one of the rare occasions when the seats fitted just about right - not too crowded or steep.

Getting here can be a bit of a struggle but we got plenty of parking spaces next to the stadium. A new family-friendly restaurant near the ticket office that actually serves decent food and acts as a stall club gallery. And finally, the beer. I think our staff is the league’s most well trained at shifting out pints of ice cold LEOs. Plus, you’re free to carry your drinks inside the stadium - can’t do that at Thammasat!

Bringing back to Cézanne, I think our management, for all the criticism I gave them, did experiment with a 3-sided stadium and I respect them for pulling it off. BG Pathum United was one of the first Thai clubs to have their own purpose-built and I am proud of that. I wouldn’t go as far as saying the stadium is a work of art...but I think it’s pretty cool.

NEW!! Mitr Phol Stadium, Ratchaburi by Neal Oliver: 2020

Mitr Phol Stadium, Ratchaburi
by Neal Oliver

Before I start about Mitr Phol Stadium, to put it into perspective, I’ll start with a little bit of my Thailand Footballing History.  I moved to Hua Hin, Thailand in 2012, and soon developed an affiliation with Hua Hin City FC – firstly at Fort Thanarat and ultimately at Takiab Stadium.  We didn’t appreciate the best of Thai Football, and it was a bit like the UK, comparing Victoria Park, Hartlepool with Old Trafford. 

However, we did get to some half decent stadiums in the lower leagues, with an empty SCG Stadium to watch Assumption Utd probably being the premier facility.  The new Nonthaburi Stadium, built alongside the old stadium was one of the best, although totally under-utilised.  I think the worst stadium I visited in the Hua Hin City era was at Prachinburi, where one goal mouth was split level (the photo below doesn’t do it justice), and Hua Hin City had a goal denied when the ball ricocheted off the corner of the step between levels on the goal line.

So my first 5 years of Thai football took me to some very varied locations.

We fell out with Hua Hin City for some appalling reasons, but needed to get our fix of league football somewhere.  We had 2 logical choices:

⦁ Closest was Prachuap, who had just made it into the top level of Thai football.  That was a non-starter because we still had memories of their president leading a bloody charge of drunken supporters attacking Hua Hin City players in 2014.  A disgusting incident that will never be forgotten.  Whilst he continues at the head of that football club, we could never support them.

⦁ The other choice was Ratchaburi Mitr Phol.  We knew very little about the club, but decided to give it a go.  It is about a 2 hour drive from Hua Hin, but the roads are much friendlier than the drive to Prachuap.

So 3 of us went on adventure to Mitr Phol Stadium.  We didn’t have a clue where we going, simply followed the SatNav.  As we approached, we could see the stadium, with the dragon sat on the roof as a warning to all visiting football teams.

We drove into the more than adequate car park, directed to a parking bay by friendly stewards.  We parked up, and just sat there for a few minutes, totally gob smacked.  This was just like an English football stadium.  Hundreds of fans, all wearing Ratchaburi shirts.  Remember, we were used to Takiab Stadium where the total crowd was often less than100, and club shirts may go on sale half way through a season, but never larger sizes.

We got out of the car and went exploring this new wonderland.  We found a ticket booth and somehow bought what we to this day consider the best seats in the house, and these days have season tickets for those exact same seats.  140฿ a ticket for top class football in Thailand, we just couldn’t believe our luck.

Tickets in our pockets, we moved next door to the club shop.  Wow!!!  The last time I’d seen so many shirts was at Old Trafford.  All colours, all sizes including Foreign Fat Boy sizes.  I’m rather a large chap, and have great difficulty buying clothes off the shelf in England, let alone Thailand.  That evening, I bought orange, purple, light blue, green and yellow shirts – I didn’t like the black one.  What an incredible shop.  Unfortunately, despite the Thai population getting fatter, they have downsized the shirt sizes they sell, so we manufacture our own these days.  Typical Thai business acumen – you have a product that sells out before everything else, so you discontinue it.  That is probably the most baffling part about the club to me.

We took our shirts back to the car, and each changed into our favourite colour.  I had been wearing a Plymouth Argyle Shirt, but was now wearing the colours of my new Thai team – orange.  I was now a Ratchaburi Mitr Phol supporter, and proud.

There was a food court selling all sorts of Thai food to the side of the club shop, although, alas no Pukka Pies, Fish & Chips or Cornish Oggies.  Seriously, quite a good selection + beer if you wanted it.  Several other food outlets on our way to the entrance on the other side of the stadium.

Of course, after a 2 hour drive, purchase of tickets and going crazy in the Aladdin’s Cave club shop, our next stop was the toilet.  Now football ground toilets throughout the world are an unforgettable experience, with a smell that could be used as WMDs.  I’ll never forget the Boxing Day matches in the UK when the smell used to take on a spiced tone, with a mix of Brussels sprouts, and the steam coming off the communal trough.  This is an odour that only football supporters can appreciate.  Well, what a shock – the toilets didn’t smell.  They were clean, they were fresh.  There was even soap to wash your hands.  Mitr Phol Stadium was getting better and better.

Now this stadium was relatively new, and made for football.  I hate those huge provincial stadiums with running tracks.  If you get behind a goal mouth, it can be 50 yards to the first goal, and the other goal is a white blob in the distance.  Ratchaburi is seated on 3 sides.  When we first went, the (main) West Stand was roofed, whilst the Curve Zone and East Stand (where we were) were open to the elements.  This season saw a brand new roof added to the East Stand.

We were told at the start of this season (seems a hundred years ago now) that the next big project was to complete the build, by building a North Stand.  Wherever you sit in Mitr Phol Stadium, you have an unobstructed pitch side view on a proper seat.

OK, so we took our seats in section U of the East Stand.  The first thing we realised was that the band was in front of us.  Brilliant – all we had at Takiab Stadium was a tone deaf kid with a megaphone, who thought chanting made him hard.  We were going to experience bit of proper football atmosphere at last.  Then the teams came out, and we were in heaven – a ginormous Ratchaburi flag was raised in front of us.

This was repeated every time we scored a goal, so the flag was raised 4 times that night.  This was real football.  Unfortunately, the flag vanished last season with the emergence of the Space Invader logo, but I’m pleased to report the dragon has emerged from the ashes, and a brand new flag is back.

Then there was the pitch.  I’ve mentioned the condition of lower league playing surfaces, and the split level Prachinburi goalmouth.  The Ratchaburi pitch was more like a snooker table.  In fact, it wasn’t until my 3rd visit that I realised it wasn’t an artificial pitch.  If you can’t play great football on that surface, you’re as well giving up.  Definitely one of the best surfaces I’ve seen anywhere.

One concern we had was rain.  We all know that when it rains in Thailand, it rains.  The East Stand, which we love, was totally open to the elements.  We used to find ourselves checking the weather forecast all the way to the match, and choose our seat accordingly.  If there was any likelihood of rain, we’d opt for the West Stand.  However, as we found out against Sukhothai last season, a roof offers no protection to Ratchaburi rain.

So what do I think of the West Stand?  It is full of people who aren’t really passionate about their football.  I’ve been there many times, and am amazed at how many people are sat there watching soaps on their phones, rather than the football.  I’ve even seen some watching other live games on their phone, whilst ignoring the game in front of them.  Yes, I’m sure a few will be watching the game, but probably only 50%.  The atmosphere, when compared to the East Stand resembles a morgue.  I always sat in section D or E whilst in the West Stand, so maybe other sections are more passionate about their football.

I would rate Mitr Phol Stadium very highly when compared to other stadiums in Thailand, purpose built and totally suited to the crowd Ratchaburi Mitr Phol attracts to each match.

Unlike many Thai football stadiums, visiting fans are segregated, but they are not made to feel like pariahs, they are given decent pitch sides under cover.  I have never seen crowd trouble at Mitr Phol.

The final thing to say about Mitr Phol Stadium is I have always found the crowd very welcoming and friendly to us foreigners to the extent they are delighted to have us in their stadium.  Even better, this season so far, the football has been worthy of a great stadium.

NEW!! The SCG Stadium: The Home Of Muang Thong Utd by Grant Aitken: 2020

The SCG Stadium: The Home Of Muang Thong Utd

by Grant Aitken

Stadium
SCG Stadium, Pak Kret, Nonthaburi

Transport
This will prove to be problematic until the BTS is extended throughout Cheangwattana Road, which is scheduled for some time next year (or later). Get a taxi, it’s the least stressful option and they are usually plentiful as long as you aren’t attending the “late, late” kick off at 8pm.

Match Day Ticket
B180 baht gets you a seat behind the goal, B220 places you off centre or in “The Gods” and B250 for the privileged few that want to sit directly behind the dugout. Away fans pay B250 also and are probably being overcharged B30 based on the location.
Tickets can be purchased before match day using the LINE application for TicketMe. Pay by credit card and they’ll send a barcode to your phone which you present just before you enter the stand, it’s unnervingly simple now they’ve outsourced the responsibility to a 3rd party.

Club Shop
There are 2 open on match days, although only the location near the main ticket office is open throughout the week. It’s well stocked and in my household we generally buy any quirky new item they come out with, key rings, mascot teddies, bag packs and car stickers, club shirts of former players plying their trade in the J-League are also sold, although now Terrasil, Chanathip and Theeraton have left the club permanently, I’m not sure if this will still be the case.  Match day programmes are available and very professionally produced including an English section.

Away End
There’s about 1,000 seats available and those oppositional teams that bring that many will spill over into the upper stand. There’s not much room up there but if you like to be on top of the action it gives a great vantage point. It’s a good view wherever you sit and generally well appreciated by traveling supporters. The roofs are very short however, and only cover the back half a dozen rows, so bare this in mind when planning where to sit. 

Staff
Prior to the link-up with TicketMe I’d have this area pinned as mediocre, not terrible but not great. Since TicketMe have taken the helm, the customer service is noticeably better. There’s a good standard of spoken English at the ticket office, even for B Team matches and I usually get told to “enjoy the match, bro” in my native language too.

However, my one bugbear is the ridiculous gang of portly Ninjas they employ to stop Ultra fans coming onto the pitch at the end of the match. It’s a time long tradition that those players working their backsides off are presented with a custom made, Ultra fan styled T-Shirt and the club photographer happily snaps away as a shirtless spectator (perhaps it was his own shirt?) hops over the sponsor boards to hand it the club member of choice. It’s basically an initiation ceremony for academy players and new signings, with both players and spectators looking on excitedly to see who, if anyone is selected that week.

But, about 18 months ago during an away trip to Bangkok Glass, there was an unsavory incident were a fan threw a large flag onto the pitch at the end of the match which landed dangerously close to the players, and specifically the club captain. The fans I’ve spoken to say the intention was for the players to wave it, however the action was misconstrued by social media and ever since we’ve been treated to the presence of the worst Wu-Tang Clan tribute act you’re ever likely to see. A couple of them even sport black vests that read ‘US Army’ on the lapel and ski-masks that cover their faces, whilst all the others are dressed head to toe in black with batons in hand too. I’d laugh if it wasn’t my own club! 

Food
There’s a few options around the stadium but generally more going on around immediately outside. That’s the case for both sets of supporters. Many Muangthong fans hang out under the underpass and street vendors are happy to convenience them. About 100 yards back is the away stand entrance were away supporters, particularly those that traveled by car, pull out a mat and settle down for a picnic. It’s quite a nice contrast to see the two sets of fans relaxing outside the stadium in close proximity then being segregated inside as hostilities start at kick off.

Beer
B80 for a plastic glass full of team sponsored beer, Leo. It’s widely available throughput the stadium and can be taken inside too. For bigger matches, the beers are pulled early and put in fridges to cope with demand. They can get a little bit flat by the time they reach the customers, so remember to ask for a fresh one if possible.

Parking
There’s a large car park next to the lake, opposite the stadium. Those that go early and want to visit a restaurant in the area or do some shopping also have the option of Impact Arena. There’s separate parking for away fans too. Motorcyclists can park under the express way and avoid the seasonal showers.

Overall Experience
It’s widely considered one of the best footballing experiences in the league. I’m not as well travelled as I’d like when it comes to visiting other venues but I’ve heard enough positive comments to say that SCG Stadium is a must-visit for any local sporting enthusiast.

NEW!! An Ode To The Chang Arena by Jamie Pinder: 2020

An Ode To The Chang Arena

by Jamie Pinder

Oh! Chang Arena

Where the seats are cleaner

Than most other grounds

The fans are loud

It’s not rent-a-crowd 

You can marvel at the sounds

Their songs and dancing

Are like reindeer prancing

Thru the fresh winter snow

When asked about pay

They will answer nay

It’s for the team they love to show

Nearly 10 years now

We’ve come to bow

To the Kings of Thai football

To see them win

And win and win

And to always give their all

It’s a wonderful place

With plenty of space 

To enjoy a meal or drink

But to go inside

And not be able to imbibe

Is a crime, don’t you think?

To the owners, we are grateful

Just forget about the hateful

Fans of other teams

For they come and lose

Bowing down to the blues

At the Arena, the Theater of Dreams