Characters At Thai Football Matches by Malcolm Imray: June 2011

Malcolm Imray's tongue in cheek look at the kind of people you would expect to see watching Thai football in June 2011.

Characters at Thai Football Games - Part One (The Foreigners)

For those of you that have been to watch a Thai football game, you will notice that there are an abundance of characters in attendance. I thought I'd take a closer look at some of the people who go to watch Thai football. 

JACK THE LAD

Jack the Lad is a 20’s something who has been living in Thailand for 18 months or so. He is having the time of his life and still believes the girls in Soi Cowboy when they call him “handsome man.” Jack’s match day generally begins with a 3pm rise after a heavy night out partying. When he arrives at the stadium he’s feeling pretty rough but after a couple of beers he’s ready to go again. Any cheerleader or promotion girl who is unfortunate enough to catch his eye will be subjected to his smooth chat up lines. Once inside the stadium, Jack will head straight for the singing section. After joining in with a few of the regular Thai chants, Jack will want to initiate the singing. He usually fails to start a chant off, although it should be noted that he will be received with warm smiles and acknowledgement from the Thais in attendance.

THE EXPERT

The foreign expert is a growing presence now in Thai football. He is a few years older than Jack the Lad and has mellowed with his lengthy stay in Thailand. He was an avid follower of football back in his home country and has suffered years of pain and misery following his local team. His newly adopted Thai team has given him the opportunity to start afresh. However, the novelty has quickly worn off and he is becoming more and more frustrated with his new Thai side. On match day, he is easy to spot when the teams emerge onto the pitch, as he will be frantically trying to work which players are involved and what the formation will be. During the game he will be either be applauding enthusiastically or scratching his head with bemusement. 

THE BACKPACKERS

The backpackers are recognizable by their Khaosan Road attire, day packs and large bottles of water. They will be sporting a broad smile and will want to exchange pleasantries in Thai with the locals. From the outside they appear happy but inside they are deeply worried as their trip to the football has overspent their weekly budget by 40 Baht.

I'M THE ONLY FOREIGNER IN THAILAND

This person is similar to Matt Lucas’ Little Britain character “I’m the only gay in the village.” He hates all of the aforementioned people mentioned above as he reckons they are stealing his thunder with the Thai public. He will only speak with Thais because he doesn’t want to be associated with the foreign riff-raff. Before the game, he is usually milling around the main entrance to the stadium hoping to catch the attention of players and club officials. In any consequent discussions regarding Thai football, he will constantly refer to any staff connected to his club by their first name as he wants everybody to know how important he is.

Characters at Thai Football Games - Part 2 (The Thai Family)

The Reluctant Father

Once upon a time, father dreamt about being the first ever Thai player to score the winning goal for either Manchester United or Liverpool in the FA Cup final at Wembley Stadium. These days those dreams are long gone as he has reluctantly accepted his role as the head of the family and part-time taxi driver. At the game, he will quietly stare at the football wishing that he was somewhere else. He will tentatively try to edge away from his family during the game without much success.

The Uninterested Mother

The uninterested mother has absolutely no interest in football. She is only tagging along to make sure that her hubby isn’t nipping off to see his 16 year-old gig (bit on the side).  Nevertheless, she is a great favourite with the food vendors outside the stadiums as she will purchase enough food to feed a Thai village. If you want to track her, you can easily follow her trail by the path of discarded monkey nut shells that she has left behind. 

The Hyperactive Kid

The hyperactive kid will jump, leap, hop, skip, cry, fight, shout, run. Basically you can insert any action verb apart from ‘watch’ the bastard game. The youngster is an expert at staring out farangs and isn’t shy to point out the obvious that there is a Caucasian in the vicinity. Thankfully by the second half, the little cherub is tired and will be cradled fast asleep into disinterested mother’s arms. 

Character at Thai Football Games - Part 3 (The Best of the Rest)

UnKool and the Gang

UnKool and the Gang can come in two forms of groups. The first is a group of teenage boys, and the second is a mixed group commonly in their 20’s. They usually turn up 15 minutes into the game and always seem to end up somewhere in my vicinity. The initial 5 minute discussion is to decipher which team they’re supposed to support. Once that’s been decided, they will talk loudly and try to impress all around them with their witty repartee. I’ve got no idea what they do after half-time as I’ve usually moved to the other side of the stadium by then.

The Cheerleaders 

Most of us Westerners would normally associate cheerleaders as being young scantily clad female dancers waving pom-poms. Yes, they can be seen in Thailand too, but there are several other kinds of people ready to enliven the crowd. You might have a nerd chanting into a megaphone, the Thai equivalent of Freddie Mercury prancing in front of the crowd, a young drunken shirtless lad who thinks he's the hardest man in Thailand or even an overly enthusiastic club owner trying to motivate the crowd. No matter which one it is, they all have one thing in common. None of them watch the game!!

The Tattooed Nutter

To the outsider, the Tattooed nutter appears to be a scary man. His eyes are bloodshot and he looks like he’s been drinking Thai rice wine since 7am in the morning – which he most likely has. He’s getting on a bit in life and has mellowed after spending half of his adult life in jail. In spite of that, he will gladly welcome farangs following his team with warm handshakes.

The Screamer 

The Screamer is a young lady aged between 20 and 40 years old. She probably has no idea what the offside rule is, but, nonetheless she’s very enthusiastic about watching her team. She will get overly excited during the game and will let out a loud screech anytime her team approaches the opposition box. The winning of a throw in for her side or a yellow card for an opposition player are also greeted with much fervor. She tends to base player’s ability on their looks, and as a consequence she thinks that Leesaw and Peter Lang are the best players in Thailand. 

Chinese Looking Dude with the Glasses

Before the match begins, the Chinese looking dude with the glasses comes across as an intellectual man. He has a reasonable grasp of English and enjoys chatting with fellow farang football fans. Once the game starts though, he turns into a vociferous lunatic with the referee usually being the target of his angst.

The Middle Class Couple 

The Middle class couple give the impression that they know everybody of importance in attendance. Before the game starts, they will spend most of the pre-match smiling and ‘wai-ing’ at fellow Thais. They are always well prepared with plenty of food, drinks, waterproofs and umbrellas. They never get angry during the game and when their team scores, they will let out a light ripple of applause to show their appreciation.

A League Of Their Own by Jeerawat Na Thalang (Bangkok Post): 2015

A LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN

by Jeerawat Na Thalang

Bangkok Post 

16th August, 2015

Once considered a joke, professional Thai football is more popular and profitable than ever, and top clubs and sponsors are cashing in

Earlier this month, the top two teams in Thailand’s Premier League, Muangthong United and Buriram United, kicked off the second half of their season with one of the best matches this year. The exciting game ended in a stalemate at 2-2, but it promised more excitement ahead in the professional Thai football season.

In front of a packed I-Mobile Stadium in the northeastern province of Buri Ram, the players from the two top-ranking teams were in fine form and put on quite a show for the 30,000-plus crowd packed into the stadium and the millions who watched the match on TV.

“The match showed both sportsmanship and athletic excellence and it was very entertaining to watch,” said Ong-arj Kosinkar, president of the Thai Premier League Co Ltd (TPL). “Games like this elevate Thai football to the same level as the European game.”

The electric atmosphere in the stadium and the anticipation from the fans before kick-off was a far cry from the early days of professional Thai football, when there was little interest in the local game.

Ronnarit Suewaja, who is club director and executive director at SCG Muangthong United, recalled the state of the game a decade ago, when matches were played in almost empty stadiums. “The number of players was higher than the number of spectators,” he said.

Football has long been one of the most popular sports in Thailand, but local fans tended to follow European or English teams, such as Manchester United or Liverpool, rather than the local sides. The sport’s governing body, the Football Association of Thailand, started the Thai Premier League in 1996, but is was not until 2007 that local communities started to take an interest and follow the teams. Before then, the teams in the league played under the banners of organisations such as commercial banks, government agencies or state enterprises like the Royal Navy or the Port Authority of Thailand.

Some players had to practise late in the afternoons after their day jobs.

The merger of the Thai Premier League with the provincial league in 2007 marked a turning point for local fans with the game rapidly gaining popularity at the grass-roots level.

As a result, sponsorship deals and money started flooding in. Mr Ong-arj said the success of the Thai Premier League had gained attention from around the world.

“Foreigners are looking at what happened in Thailand and trying to learn why the Thai Premier League has become so successful,” he told Spectrum.

KICKING A FINANCIAL GOAL

Mr Ong-arj estimated more than 3.5 billion baht in cash has been circulating in Thailand’s professional football league. The majority of the money goes to the top-tier league, which is now officially known as the Toyota Thai Premier League thanks to sponsorship from the Japanese car-maker. 

TPL Co was set up to manage the country’s professional football leagues, which include the Thai Premier League and Division 1, where relegated teams end up, and Division 2, which is the Regional League. The annual income of the leagues is about 800 million baht. The earnings consist of TrueVisions’ broadcasting rights for Toyota Premier League matches, worth 600 million baht, 100 million baht from Toyota and an additional 100 million baht from other sponsors.

Mr Ong-arj said each team in the Toyota Premier League receives 20 million baht annually from the broadcasting rights. TPL also contributes three million baht to each Division 1 team. The rest goes to teams in the Regional League.

Although there are no official statistics available, Mr Ong-arj estimated that the 18 Toyota Thai Premier League teams were likely to invest on average 100 million baht annually to build up their teams. Each Division 1 team was likely to spend 70 million baht annually, he said. There was also money from sponsorship deals, ticket sales and souvenirs.

The season runs from March to October, with teams playing 34 games each, totalling 306 games in the season. The first leg of the season finished last month.

The number of spectators at Toyota Thai Premier League matches in the first leg of this season rose to 1.072 million, compared with 1.049 million in the same period last season. The average audience per match was estimated at 7,010 in the first leg this season, compared with 5,523 in the same period last season.

Income from ticket sales and souvenirs was 832,336 baht per match in the first leg of this season, compared with 743,602 baht last year.

“The crowds at Thai Premier League games are growing stronger every year,” Mr Ong-arj said.

BUILDING A FAN BASE

Ms Pattanee Hongthong, a 67-year-old fan, takes her family to watch almost all of the Chonburi Football Club’s home games.

Spectrum met Ms Pattanaee on July 25 when Chonburi played Osotspa Samut Prakan FC. Wearing a Chonburi FC blue jersey, Ms Pattanee went to the match with her daughter and a nephew.

“I like football and I wanted to show my support for my team.”

She moved to Chon Buri 10 years ago, but it is not hard to imagine why she has identified with the local team. Before each match, people in the province gather to discuss the possible outcome. Posters showing Chonburi FC’s match schedules are everywhere. When Chonburi FC plays a home game, fans don their blue jerseys as a show of unity. 

Pasanon Sattapongpan took his daughter to the game. He moved to Chon Buri a year ago. “I prefer to bring my daughter to watch the game during the weekend. It is better than going to a department store,” he said. “It’s good for the province to have a football team and there are lots of activities for family members to enjoy together.”

In 2007, Chonburi became the first club from the Provincial League to win the Thai Premier League. “Our victory has inspired other provincial teams to follow,” said Annop Singtothong, the vice-president of Chonburi FC.

Chonburi FC rent their stadium from the Chon Buri Provincial Administration Organisation. Although the stadium is small with only an 8,000-seat capacity, it meets international standards with modern facilities and five exits. Games and activities are organised in front of the stadium to entertain fans before the game, helping to attract younger generations of fans. The match, which started at 6pm, ended with a 2-0 win for Chonburi.

“The football team unites people in the province,” Mr Annop said. “We have to win. People come to watch the game for 90 minutes. If their team loses, they are disappointed. But if their team wins, they cannot stop talking about it.”

Mr Annop said Chonburi FC was a good model for provincial teams. The side gained a wide fan base because of the team’s success during the early years after the provincial league was merged with the Premier League, he said.

“At that time, when other provincial teams were not as strong, football fans in the provinces rooted for us because they could identify with us more than with teams from Bangkok,” Mr Annop said.

He added that Chonburi had expanded its fan base thanks to television. In 2008, free-to-air Channel 11 agreed to broadcast Thai Premier League games live to boost the professional league. The initial broadcast time was set at 4pm, well before prime time.

“Corporate teams such as Osotspa and Bangkok Bank did not mind the timing because they would be able to get two hours of free advertising. But in the Chonburi team’s view, 4pm was too early for the game. The weather was still hot and the spectators would prefer to sit on the same side as the cameras to avoid the sunlight. The image projected nationwide would give the impression the game was played in an empty stadium,” he said.

Chonburi insisted on playing at 6pm to get the best image broadcast to the biggest possible audience. In 2008, the team hired the Siam Sport Syndicate to broadcast games live on its sport cable channel. “We were willing to pay two million baht to broadcast each game,” he said.

The new broadcast time made a big difference. Spectators now packed all sides of the stadium because at 6pm the sunlight and heat were no longer an issue. The stadium was full of spectators wearing the same team jersey, which made a great impression on the television audience.

The team also aimed to cash in on social media, with replays of the matches. In addition to some 6,000-10,000 spectators in the stadium, more than two million viewers watched Chonburi FC on YouTube. “Such a visual impact gives people inspiration,” Mr Annop said.

Chonburi has subsequently increased sales of the team jersey. “We even produced a team scarf, even though Thailand is hot. Still, some fans bought the scarf because it looks good when they wear them in the stadium,” he said.

Now the popularity of Thai Premier League has risen to the point where broadcasters have to bid for broadcasting rights. In 2013, pay TV operator TrueVisions won the rights to air the Thai Premier League for three years at an annual cost of 600 million baht. For the clubs it was a windfall — instead of being paid per broadcast, each team received 20 million baht from the broadcasting rights.

The rising popularity has also turned some Thai players into celebrities. Being a footballer is much more lucrative financially than many other professions, with salaries topping 100,000 baht per month, Mr Annop said.

BRANCHING OUT

Mr Ong-arj is in no doubt that watching Thai football "is now as much fun as watching European matches".

“Football fans now feel a sense of ownership with the teams that represent their province,” he added.

Thai fans are interested in only the top five English premiership teams, he said, but in the Thai professional league the audience is growing and definitely home-grown. “Now we have football fans rooting for their teams in different provinces such as Suphan Buri, Chiang Rai, Si Sa Ket and Chon Buri,” he said.

The success of Thai football is not only measured by the rising number of fans, but by the inclusion of foreign players. “If they were not convinced that they could earn a stable and competitive income, they would not have come to play in Thailand,” he said.

This season, there are a total 490 players in Thai Premier League teams, 401 of them Thai and 89 foreign. Twenty came from Brazil, 11 from Japan, 11 from South Korea and the rest from a wide variety of countries.

“In Asia, we are one of the top 10 leagues and number one in Asean. People are surprised that the Thai Premier League has expanded so rapidly,” said Mr Ong-arj.

THE STARS SHINE

The football clubs, meanwhile, have used professional management to strengthen their teams as well as their fan bases. Managing a football team involves three key factors, said Ronnarit Suewaja, club director and executive director of Muangthong United. They are strong partners, good players and a good marketing strategy.

Hailed as one of the richest teams in the Thai Premier League, Muangthong United is owned by the Siam Sport Syndicate, the most powerful sports media organisation in the country. The team now also has a sponsorship deal with Siam Cement Public Company Limited, the largest cement company in Thailand.

“We have carefully crafted our image," Mr Ronnarit said. "Our brand creation must incorporate our target [to be No 1], lifestyle [of our fans], success and excitement.” For instance, Muangthong United chose the nickname "twin Qilin" to show its oriental flare in order to attract fans in other Asian countries.

Muangthong’s squad boasts Thai football superstars including Kawin Thamsatchanan, Teerasil Dangda and Sarach Yooyen. The team also recruited foreign players to add more excitement for fans.

In 2011, Muangthong signed former Liverpool player Robbie Fowler, who signed a one-year contract. “Fowler helped make the team known internationally,” Mr Ronnarit said.

The team also makes the best use of social media. Muangthong United’s Facebook page has more than 1.3 million followers. “That’s the highest among any Thai Premier League team,” he said.

Venus Asavasitthithavorn, the corporate communications director at SCG's Corporate Communications Office, said the sponsorship deal with Muangthong United is part of the company’s plan to establish its brand across Asean. She said the sponsorship deal is about 100 million baht annually.

“The SCG brand has been known among adults because our products are construction materials. Football helps connect our brand to the younger generation,” she said.

“A recent survey shows that football ranks as the second factor that makes people recognise the SCG brand after water conservation, which has long been our main social activity.”

Muangthong United also benefited from an extensive network of 50,000 SCG employees nationwide. “Wherever Muangthong United FC plays, they are always SCG staff members rooting for the team,” she said. 

Muangthong United, like other major clubs, also grooms the future generation of footballers through its academy. On the day of our interview, pre-teen students from Photinimit School, which has an agreement with the club, were gathering at Muangthong United’s cafe after they took a break from training.

THE RIGHT CONNECTIONS

Interest from politicians and celebrities has added to the excitement surrounding the professional football league. That is particularly the case for Newin Chidchob’s role in transforming Buriram Football Club into a football juggernaut after he took over in December 2009.

Waving the banner: A sea of red can often be seen at the Thunderdome as fans come out in droves to watch Muangthong United. The club has capitalised on social media and has strong support.

Mr Newin, once a controversial politician, made a massive investment and turned the club into the reigning Premier League champions. Industry observers agree that Mr Newin has successfully improved his public image through the association with Buriram United.

“Throughout my political life, I spent lot on Buri Ram province, but nobody recognised it. But now, people want to take photographs with me because I made them happy. After each match I have to stand for one hour taking photos with the fan club. This is real happiness that you cannot find elsewhere,” he told the Thaipublica website in 2012.

Chonburi FC, meanwhile, is chaired by Wittaya Khunpluem, a member of the most influential political family in Chon Buri province.

“Khun Wittaya does not get involved in the decision-making of the team. But of course, he helped facilitate the use of the Chon Buri Administration Organisation’s stadium, which has been the home of the Chonburi team,” Mr Annop said.

Nualphan Lamsam, a socialite and a top executive at Muangthai Insurance, recently took over the Port Football Club. But it remains to be seen if she will be able to turn around one of the oldest Thai teams. Port FC is still struggling in the bottom half of the rankings this season.

CASHING IN

The success of the professional football league has drawn the interest of many sponsors. Surapol Utintu, the executive director of Thai Beverage Marketing Co Ltd, said, “Sports marketing is one of the most effective marketing tools. It helps enhance the image of the products. Once the image of the product improves, it helps increase sales.

“You walk into department stores and see people wearing football team T-shirts with the Chang brand on the chest. If you are not proud of the brand, that is not possible. I think people feel proud to wear T-shirts with the Chang logo. That’s good enough,” he said, when asked why the company cannot quantify the returns on its investment.

He added that the overall business involving Thai professional football could reach 10 billion baht, taking into account the related businesses. “TrueVisions spent 600 million baht to win the broadcasting rights. If TrueVisions agreed to spend that much, imagine how much they make from broadcasting the games every weekend,” Mr Surapol said.

He added that Thai Beverage spent about 500 million baht to promote sports-related activities annually, with half of that going to youth development. It is part of the company’s corporate social responsibility commitment, he said.

Mr Surapol declined to reveal the amounts given to each team. “We support many teams. If one team realises that we have given less to them than another, they may ask questions,” he said.

Thai Beverage is one of the biggest sponsors as the company supports nine Premier League clubs, including the perennially popular Buriram United, Chonburi FC, Suphanburi FC, Army United and Port FC. Thai Beverage also supports nine Division 1 clubs and 15 Regional League clubs.

Asked if the company did the sponsorship deals for tax deduction benefits, he said: “Some activities may be tax deductible. But the value is low compared to our sales of more than 100 billion baht. Our main objective is to develop the potential of people.”

AIA Thailand is also a major sponsor of Thailand’s professional football clubs. According to Yada Vongtongkum, the associate director of the customer office of AIA Thailand, the company now supports six teams in the Thai Premier League, Muangthong United, Chaing Rai United, Bangkok Glass FC, Bangkok United, Suphanburi FC and Chonburi FC.

AIA Thailand declined to reveal its sponsorship figure. “The sponsorship deal with football teams is part of the company’s strategy," she said. "We view this as a long-term plan.

“Football sponsorship enables us to reach the masses, including young people. We have to realise that for Gen Y, football is a big deal. It can connect to people socially and economically. AIA has also connected with people in the same way.”

Mr Surapol said the league's growing popularity prompted many advertisers to become sponsors. “Everyone is in the field. Today, whoever does not use football as their sports marketing is going to miss the bandwagon.”

New! My Thai Football Diary: (March) 2023

Saturday 4th March

TPL: Chonburi 2-2 Khon Kaen Utd (Chonburi Stadium)

I got to the stadium nice and early and managed to take lots of photographs (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) of the ground and the staff preparing to host the match. The game itself was a reasonably entertaining 2-2 draw. I think it was a fair result. Obviously disappointed we didn't win, but a good day was had and I caught up with a few friend and introduced a mate, Jon, and his son, Jake, to the joys of supporting Chonburi FC. They really enjoyed their first experience watching the Sharks and vowed to return.

Sunday 5th March

TPL: BG Pathum Utd 1-3 Nongbua Pichaya (TV)

TPL: Port 2-3 Muang Thong Utd (TV)

I watched a couple of matches on the tele. First up BG Pathum United - probably the only team in the league currently worse than us – against Nongbua Pichaya - who had beaten us the week before. The visitors deservedly won 3-1. Then switched over to watch the rest of Port v Muang Thong Utd. The away team came from two nil down to win three two. Lots of controversy – involving penalties, VAR etc - and Madame Pang had a hissy fit at the end, confronting the officials. Entertaining enough, I suppose.

Thursday 9th March

PTT Stadium

On the way back from a short break in Chantaburi, we stopped off at the PTT Stadium in Rayong, one of the nicer Thai league grounds of recent years. It’s currently not being used to host professional football matches, which is a real shame. I managed to get inside without any problems and had a good walk around. I took lots of photographs. As much as I enjoyed myself, I also felt quite sad. It is a decent ground and a lot better than many that are hosting matches in the top flight. It deserves better. If we could dismantle it and transfer it piece by piece up to Chonburi, I wouldn't be too unhappy.

Sunday 12th March

TPL: Bangkok Utd 3-1 Chonburi (Thammasat Stadium)

Drove up to Bangkok with Claire, Tim and Osman. We had a lovely late morning/early afternoon walking round Chatuchak market. I hadn’t been there for a very long time. It was busy and extremely hot. Also the air quality wasn't the greatest. In fact, Bangkok went from the 14th most polluted city in the world to the 12th, in the couple of hours that we were there. I know because Osman was monitoring it on his phone. There’s not much to say about the match, however pre match I had one of those great experiences you only get at Thai football. 

As the ground is on a university campus, we couldn't buy beer at the stadium or at the local 7 11s so I asked a local motorbike taxi driver to take me somewhere we could purchase the golden liquid. After about a minute, we rolled up at a private house down one of the sois behind the college. I knocked on the door and a little old lady opened the shutter. It was a bit like being in the USA during Prohibition. Behind her, I could see cans and bottles of alcohol stacked floor to ceiling. I bought six cans of Chang, three cans of Leo and returned triumphantly to the ground. Absolutely brilliant. This is why I love Thailand. 

Wednesday 15th March

Championship: Nakhon Pathom Utd 1-0 Suphanburi (TV)

Championship: Rayong 2-1 Customs (TV)

I had hoped to get along to Samut Prakan City this evening, but circumstances conspired against me. So I ended up watching two Championship matches on the tele. In all honesty, there’s nothing much to talk about from either. There was lots of play acting and lots of time wasting. And, to be honest, I’m pretty glad I don’t have to watch this kind of stuff every week.

Saturday 18th March

TPL: Buriram Utd 4-1 Khon Kaen Utd (TV)

Watched Buriram United beat Khon Kaen Utd 4-1. A bit of controversy early on when Buriram were awarded a very questionable penalty. Then had to retake it (they missed the first effort) because the keeper had moved. No more than any keeper does, but… However, in the end, the home team ran out comfortable winners so it didn’t really matter. 

Sunday 19th March

Princess Srindhorn Stadium, IPE Stadium, Chonburi Municipal Stadium & Chonburi Stadium

TPL: Chonburi 1-2 Ratchaburi (Chonburi Stadium)

I set off early in order to visit all of the stadiums that Chonburi have used during their time in the Thai league. My first stop was at Princess Srindhorn, a short ride from home. I spent many happy Sunday afternoons here during the Pro League years. It felt good to be back. I had a look round, took a few photographs and then had a hairy drive up to the IPE, in the north of the city. The stadium is looking the worse for wear. Again, I got inside, took a few photographs, sat in my old seat and then made the short hop to Chonburi Municipal Stadium. Oh my! It is a real mess. It's so sad to see it in such a rundown state. When I think of all the happy memories and glorious nights we had there, it breaks my heart. Now it's pretty much derelict and neglected. 

After leaving, I paid a quick visit to the Chonburi Blue Wave Arena, which I hadn't realised was where we used to have the fan club football games. It's been tarted up a bit since, but that's where we used to play back in the day. My final stop was Chonburi Stadium for the match against Ratchaburi. It ended in another defeat. It’s official, I am the jinx! I was in Thailand for six matches. We won none, drew one and lost five, so I think everybody is quite happy that I'm going back to England. As for the game itself, there’s not much to report. We were really poor in the first half and two nil down at half time. We played a bit better in the second and really should have drawn. Caught up with Matt, Jon, Jake, Daniel and David. Said my goodbyes. After the match, I had a few drinks with Claire and Tim and Val, and had a solitary final Chang in the sala. Then I made my weary way home.  Felt sad to leave, but I’ll be back again soon.

New! Ground Hop Day: 2023

Prior to the home match against Ratchaburi on Sunday 19th March, 2023, I visited all the former league grounds used by Chonburi FC. It was an emotional, but very enjoyable day, packed full of memories. Here is the report from my trip, plus a few details and photos.

Left home: 12:26hrs

Arrived at Princess Srindhorn Stadium: 12:30hrs

Distance travelled: 1.1kms

Departed Princess Srindhorn: 13:01hrs

Arrived at IPE Stadium: 13:48hrs

Distance travelled: 39kms

Departed IPE Stadium: 14:06hrs

Arrived at Chonburi Municipal Stadium: 14:18hrs

Distance Travelled: 7kms

Departed Chonburi Municipal Stadium: 14:53hrs

Arrived at Chonburi Stadium: 15:03hrs

Distance travelled: 5.2kms

Departed Chonburi Stadium: 20:55hrs

Arrived home: 21:56hrs

Distance travelled: 25.3kms

Total travelling time: 2hrs 24mins

Total distance travelled: 77.6kms

1. Princess Srindhorn Stadium

Home: 2004-2005 & 2008-2009

Capacity: 8,000 (now reduced)

Location: Surasak, SriRacha

The Stadium

Outside the main entrance

My seat

The view from my seat

Most Memorable Match

Pro League

Chonburi 8-1 Phang Nga

19th June, 2005

The Sharks clinched promotion to the new look top flight, with an 8-1 thrashing of second from bottom, Phang Nga, on a memorable afternoon at Princess Srindhorn. We didn't know it at the time, but this result - and achievement - was to usher in a whole new era, not just for the club, but for Thai football in general.

2. IPE Stadium

Home: 2010

Capacity: 12,000

Location: Nong Mai Daeng, Chonburi

The Stadium

Outside the main entrance

My seat

The view from my seat

Most Memorable Match

TPL

Chonburi 2-2 PEA

Sunday 17th Oct, 2010

It's hard to imagine two more diametrically opposite footballing entities than Chonburi and Buriram PEA. On the one hand you have Chonburi FC, a club with its roots firmly in the local community. A club that grew out of a local college - which continues to produce players for the first team squad on a regular basis - and one that boasts a passionate local fan base, which has grown organically along with the football team. A club that is more like a family than anything else, where people come together for a common cause and are made to feel a part of something special. Where friendships have been made and have continued to flourish. Where you can come and have a laugh and a few drinks with your mates.

There are no barriers between players, management and fans, and a strong bond, that has developed over the years, exists between everyone connected to the club. The fact that a lot of the players and staff have links that stretch back a number of years means that there is a sense of loyalty and brotherhood. A sense of belonging. And, whatever happens out on the pitch, we, as fans, know that whoever pulls on the blue striped shirts will do the best they possibly can. In return, the players know that the fans will get behind the team unconditionally. It's something that I've always been proud to be a part of.

Then you have "Buriram" PEA FC. A club that has no history and tradition in the city they now call home. In fact the owners recently denied that PEA have a past at all. Quoted in an article on www.thaileagueonline they said that their "first" season was a great success. "The original aim was to be in the top 4, but now we're looking at being runners-up, and we're confident we can do it. Next season's aim is to win the Thai Premier League title for the first time."

"First season"? "Win the Thai Premier League for the first time"?

Obviously the first thirty nine years of the club's existence and the TPL title win in 2008 have been overlooked in this Orwellian Year Zero approach. As has the fact that they were keen to promote themselves, rather vigorously, as PEA Ayutthya, and pledge their undying loyalty to that particular city and its people as recently as last season, until someone waved a big fat cheque under their noses.

Coming from England, I find this franchise football business very alien and a little unsavoury. Buriram already had a team when PEA moved in. Why didn't the locals, and the money men, get behind them in the same way the people in our province got behind our club when we were bobbing around in the Thai football basement? Just think how proud they would have felt on the day that Buriram FC won promotion to the TPL. Or how satisfying it would be to see a full stadium on a regular basis after years of playing in front of a few hundred die-hards. No. It's far easier just to buy a place at the top table without having to actually put in any of the hard work involved to reach the summit.

There has been a lot of talk elsewhere about the "Buriram" PEA fans. And most of it has been quite cynical. There are rumours that the supporters are paid to attend and are also offered other "incentives". I don't really wish to get into that discussion but I do find their method of support quite odd. In the first place, 95% of them are dressed exactly the same. And the orchestrated chanting and synchronised movements are most bizarre, to say the least. I know that this is not unique to this group of people, and they genuinely seem to be enjoying themselves, but it's not really my cup of tea. I prefer spontaneity and genuine heartfelt reaction to what is happening during a match. And I've never really liked being told what to do.

I had a friend with me at the game on Sunday. He was transfixed by the goings-on in the away end. Afterwards he concluded that what he saw was something of a cross between Black Lace's annoying 1980's hit "Agadoo" and the "He's not the Messiah" scene from Monty Python's Life of Brian, when Brian tells the crowd, "You are all individuals." And their response is a collective cry of, "Yes, we are all individuals."

So, there you have it. Two very different clubs and two very different approaches. I know which one I prefer. But you've probably worked that one out already.

3. Chonburi Municipal Stadium

Home: 2002-2003 & 2006-2008

Location: Bang Pla Soi, Chonburi

Capacity: Unknown

The Stadium

Outside the main entrance

My seat

The view from my seat

Most Memorable Match

TPL

Chonburi 3-2 Krung Thai Bank

21st November, 2007

Going into the penultimate game of the season, at home against our nearest rivals KTB, a win would give us the championship.

It was to be a remarkable occasion. Once again ESPN/Star Sports had despatched a film crew to record the event for prosperity and they weren't to be disappointed. Over 10,000 people, double our regular attendance, had somehow squeezed into the Chonburi Municipal Stadium and the atmosphere was (oh, go on) electric. The match certainly lived up to its billing. In spite of missing a penalty Chonburi had surged into a two goal lead by the break and were looking good to make history as the first provincial club to win Thai football's biggest domestic honour. Our chances were further increased when the visitors were reduced to ten men. It was within our grasp now. Of course, it wasn't to be that simple. Feeling that they had nothing to lose, KTB threw everybody forward in an effort to salvage something from the game and keep alive their own faint hopes of lifting the trophy.

This new bold attacking policy paid off, and soon not only were they level but they were looking the likelier side to go on and win it. With my nerves, and those of 10,000 other Chonburians, in tatters the coolest man in the ground, Pipob On-Mo took it upon himself to put us all out of our misery by firing home a late winner. The crowd erupted and the celebrations began in earnest with firecrackers and flares being let off in every part of the ground. The final whistle prompted a good natured pitch invasion and we had done it. A fitting end to what had been a wonderful season.

4. Chonburi Stadium

Home: 2011-present

Location: Samet, Chonburi

Capacity: 8,680

The Stadium

Outside the main entrance

My seat (top tier)

The view from my seat

At the end of a long, emotional and enjoyable day

Most Memorable Match

LEAGUE CUP

Semi Final 2nd Leg

Chonburi 3-2 PEA 

Saturday 1st October, 2011 

In a stormy* match, PEA stunned the hosts after just three minutes when Suchao Nutnum headed the ball home for an early lead.

PEA were leading 2-0 on aggregate as Chonburi needed three unanswered goals to progress.

Guston Silva made it 1-1 on the night in the 25th minute but 60 seconds later, Chonburi were reduced to 10 men when Kenneth Akpueze was dismissed as the referee thought he elbowed Frank Acheampong but replays showed Akpueze did nothing and that Acheampong had feigned injury.

But Chonburi fought spiritedly and Pipob On-mo gave the Sharks a 2-1 lead to then make it 2-2 on aggregate.

In the second half, several players of both sides were booked before, in the 70th minute, Franck Ohandza scored an equaliser for PEA. Pipob made it 3-2 and Ney Fabiano nearly became the hero for the Sharks when his header was saved by goalkeeper Sivaruk Terdsungnern.

Tor Chittinand

The Aftermath

*"Stormy" doesn't really cover it. It was a super-charged occasion and the sense of injustice - caused by some very debatable refereeing decisions - spilled over onto the car park following the match. Home fans surrounded the PEA bus and the visitors were locked inside their dressing room for well over ninety minutes after the final whistle. 

Emotions were running high and, in the absence of any real security, only the actions of some of the more level headed Chonburi supporters prevented a major incident. However, as there'd also been similar scenes at the league meeting between the two sides a few weeks earlier, we received a heavy fine and had to play our next two home games at neutral venues - the first with none of our fans allowed to attend.

On the pitch, this was one of the best performances I've ever seen from a Chonburi team. The fact it was against all the odds, and we came so close to pulling off an unlikely victory, made it even more impressive. Whilst I'm not condoning what happened outside the stadium, there's no doubt that these events contributed to a remarkable and memorable evening. It's unlikely we'll ever see anything quite like this again. Which is a huge shame.

Worachit Kanitsribampen - Football Siam (Star Junior) Article: 2011

 

New! My Thai Football Diary: (February) 2023

Saturday 11th February

Srindhorn Stadium

TPL Prachuap 3-1 Chonburi

After breakfast, I popped over to Srindhorn Stadium, SriRacha - the spiritual home of Chonburi FC. I managed to take some photos, have a nose around and reminisce. I spent many happy times here during the Pro League era - and a brief return when we were in the TPL. However, looking at the place today, it was hard to imagine that this modest little stadium ever hosted top flight football.

In the evening, I settled down to watch Prachuap v Chonburi on TV. I wish I hadn't bothered, but felt relieved I hadn't made the effort to travel. My Tweet (below) - posted at full time - sums it up nicely. Oh well, there's always next week...

Sunday 12th February

Pluak Daeng Utd 0-3 Marines - CK Stadium

Muang Thong Utd 4-4 Buriram Utd

I had a choice of three matches today: Baan Football Pattaya v Ang Sila (Semi-Pro League, at the old SriRacha FC stadium); Banbueng v Assawin Kohkwang Utd (T3) or Pluak Daeng Utd v Marines (T3). In the end, I plumped for the latter, as it was the only ground of the three that I'd never been to - I've also played on the other two. Following a pleasant drive down, we looked around the local market - which was very busy - and then headed to the game. It was an entertaining ninety minutes, with the away side running out deserved winners. Then back to the market - which was now even busier! - and home in time to watch the incredible 4-4 draw between Muang Thong Utd (Chonburi's next opponents) and Buriram Utd, on TV.

Monday 13th February

Saen Suk Municipality Stadium

Chonburi 0-1 Terengganu

During a very busy day, I managed to squeeze in a trip to Saen Suk Municipality Stadium near Bang Saen to take some photos. Many years ago, this ground was rumoured to be the site for the new Chonburi Stadium and "boutique hotel". Sadly, nothing came of it. In the evening I met up with Tim and Marco (who'd come down from Bangkok) to watch a youthful Chonburi team play Terengganu from Malaysia. It was an enjoyable way to pass a couple of hours.

Saturday 18th February

BG Pathum Utd 2-1 Prachuap

Chiang Rai Utd 3-1 Khon Kaen Utd (Second half)

Watched the BG v Prachuap match on the tele. Not a great game, played in front of what looked like a very small crowd. I'm still trying to fathom how we lost to Prachuap last week. They're a poor team. Then switched over to watch the second half of Chiang Rai Utd v Khon Kaen Utd. It was entertaining in a crazy sort of way. The home side took their chances and the visitors didn't. That seemed to be the biggest difference between the two teams. Another low crowd.

Sunday 19th February

Chonburi 0-1 Muang Thong Utd

Got a lift with Matt and met Tim, Clare and Osman at the usual pre match meeting place. Plenty of lively discussion - which included comments on how nice it was to see a big crowd again. After a few drinks, we made our way into the stadium. I was stopped from taking my bar of Kendal Mint Cake in (?!). However, Clare was waved past with a full sewing kit, including a large pair of sharp scissors (??!!). Not to be deterred, a quick sleight of hand saw me get my snack through the gate. Sneaky me! 

The match was OK. Nothing special. Matt had predicted a 1-0 away win so I'm blaming him. If he hadn't have been driving, I would have left him at the ground. Most post match discussion centred on Gjurovski's fence climbing antics. What a prat. Henceforth, he shall be known (by me) as Shughie McPhee. A hefty fine and long touchline ban should follow. But the FAT are too weak to do anything about it. We now have plans to run on the pitch at Muang Thong next season. A case of two wrongs making a right!

Thursday 23rd February

80th Birthday Stadium, Korat

An overnight stop in Korat meant I was able to pop along to the 80th Birthday Stadium to take a few photos. Outside the ground everywhere looks a bit tatty and neglected. However, the inside looked quite nice and the pitch appeared to be in decent nick. It was quite a strange experience being the only person - apart from the man cutting the grass - in such a large arena. I certainly enjoyed myself, although the climb to the top of the main stand nearly killed me!!

Friday 24th February

Khon Kaen Provincial Stadium

An earlyish start and a short drive across town from the hotel to the Khon Kaen Provincial Stadium. This is more like it. None of the pomp of yesterday, this is a "proper" Thai ground; falling apart and desperately in need of some care and attention - or demolition. I loved it! I spent a good hour or so poking around and taking photos then went for coffee with Isaac (@Khon Kaen Utd English on Twitter) and his wife. We had a smashing chat and put the (Thai football) world to rights. Shame he can't make it down for the match next Saturday.

Saturday 25th February

Muang Thong Utd 1-0 BG Pathum Utd

I caught the last forty minutes or so on TV back at our hotel. From what I saw, MTU totally dominated and deserved to win. However, they are a shadow of their former selves and I still can't comprehend how we lost to them last weekend.

Not Thai football, but I ended the day by watching Oldham Athletic's 84 minute defensive masterclass to earn them an unlikely 1-0 away win at Chesterfield. I slept well after that.

Sunday 26th February

Nongbua Pichaya 2-1 Chonburi

A very enjoyable trip to the Pichaya Stadium, ruined only by the result. All day I'd had a feeling in my bones that we would lose so, unusually, I wasn't that disappointed with the final score. Read my Tweet (below) that I posted as we were absolutely battering them with twelve minutes to go. And if you want this week's winning lottery numbers, please DM me. Still, it was a great day out and a highlight of our week away. I can't guarantee there'll be a pre-match buffalo show every week, but a trip to the Pichaya Stadium comes highly recommended.

Monday 27th February

Suranuree Base Central Stadium, Nakhon Ratchasima

We arrived back in Korat just before 5:00pm and I headed straight to the Suranuree Base Central Stadium to take a few photos. This was an emotional return for me, as this is where I saw us win the Pro League title on the last day of the season, in June, 2005. The only real change I noticed from 18 years ago, is that they've added some nice blue seats in the main stand. Otherwise, it looks exactly the same. I did venture to the top of the big open stand on the far side. Never again! It was a terrifying ascent and coming down was even worse. Not for the faint hearted!