Prior to the home match against Ratchaburi on Sunday 19th March, 2023, I visited all the former league grounds used by Chonburi FC. It was an emotional, but very enjoyable day, packed full of memories. Here is the report from my trip, plus a few details and photos.
Arrived at Princess Srindhorn Stadium: 12:30hrs
Distance travelled: 1.1kms
Departed Princess Srindhorn: 13:01hrs
Arrived at IPE Stadium: 13:48hrs
Distance travelled: 39kms
Departed IPE Stadium: 14:06hrs
Arrived at Chonburi Municipal Stadium: 14:18hrs
Distance Travelled: 7kms
Departed Chonburi Municipal Stadium: 14:53hrs
Arrived at Chonburi Stadium: 15:03hrs
Distance travelled: 5.2kms
Departed Chonburi Stadium: 20:55hrs
Arrived home: 21:56hrs
Distance travelled: 25.3kms
Total travelling time: 2hrs 24mins
Total distance travelled: 77.6kms
1. Princess Srindhorn Stadium
Home: 2004-2005 & 2008-2009
Capacity: 8,000 (now reduced)
Location: Surasak, SriRacha
The Stadium
Outside the main entrance
My seat
The view from my seat
Most Memorable Match
The Sharks clinched promotion to the new look top flight, with an 8-1 thrashing of second from bottom, Phang Nga, on a memorable afternoon at Princess Srindhorn. We didn't know it at the time, but this result - and achievement - was to usher in a whole new era, not just for the club, but for Thai football in general.
2. IPE Stadium
Home: 2010
Capacity: 12,000
Location: Nong Mai Daeng, Chonburi
Most Memorable Match
TPL
Chonburi 2-2 PEA
Sunday 17th Oct, 2010
It's hard to imagine two more diametrically opposite footballing entities than Chonburi and Buriram PEA. On the one hand you have Chonburi FC, a club with its roots firmly in the local community. A club that grew out of a local college - which continues to produce players for the first team squad on a regular basis - and one that boasts a passionate local fan base, which has grown organically along with the football team. A club that is more like a family than anything else, where people come together for a common cause and are made to feel a part of something special. Where friendships have been made and have continued to flourish. Where you can come and have a laugh and a few drinks with your mates.
There are no barriers between players, management and fans, and a strong bond, that has developed over the years, exists between everyone connected to the club. The fact that a lot of the players and staff have links that stretch back a number of years means that there is a sense of loyalty and brotherhood. A sense of belonging. And, whatever happens out on the pitch, we, as fans, know that whoever pulls on the blue striped shirts will do the best they possibly can. In return, the players know that the fans will get behind the team unconditionally. It's something that I've always been proud to be a part of.
Then you have "Buriram" PEA FC. A club that has no history and tradition in the city they now call home. In fact the owners recently denied that PEA have a past at all. Quoted in an article on www.thaileagueonline they said that their "first" season was a great success. "The original aim was to be in the top 4, but now we're looking at being runners-up, and we're confident we can do it. Next season's aim is to win the Thai Premier League title for the first time."
"First season"? "Win the Thai Premier League for the first time"?
Obviously the first thirty nine years of the club's existence and the TPL title win in 2008 have been overlooked in this Orwellian Year Zero approach. As has the fact that they were keen to promote themselves, rather vigorously, as PEA Ayutthya, and pledge their undying loyalty to that particular city and its people as recently as last season, until someone waved a big fat cheque under their noses.
Coming from England, I find this franchise football business very alien and a little unsavoury. Buriram already had a team when PEA moved in. Why didn't the locals, and the money men, get behind them in the same way the people in our province got behind our club when we were bobbing around in the Thai football basement? Just think how proud they would have felt on the day that Buriram FC won promotion to the TPL. Or how satisfying it would be to see a full stadium on a regular basis after years of playing in front of a few hundred die-hards. No. It's far easier just to buy a place at the top table without having to actually put in any of the hard work involved to reach the summit.
There has been a lot of talk elsewhere about the "Buriram" PEA fans. And most of it has been quite cynical. There are rumours that the supporters are paid to attend and are also offered other "incentives". I don't really wish to get into that discussion but I do find their method of support quite odd. In the first place, 95% of them are dressed exactly the same. And the orchestrated chanting and synchronised movements are most bizarre, to say the least. I know that this is not unique to this group of people, and they genuinely seem to be enjoying themselves, but it's not really my cup of tea. I prefer spontaneity and genuine heartfelt reaction to what is happening during a match. And I've never really liked being told what to do.
I had a friend with me at the game on Sunday. He was transfixed by the goings-on in the away end. Afterwards he concluded that what he saw was something of a cross between Black Lace's annoying 1980's hit "Agadoo" and the "He's not the Messiah" scene from Monty Python's Life of Brian, when Brian tells the crowd, "You are all individuals." And their response is a collective cry of, "Yes, we are all individuals."
So, there you have it. Two very different clubs and two very different approaches. I know which one I prefer. But you've probably worked that one out already.
3. Chonburi Municipal Stadium
Home: 2002-2003 & 2006-2008
Location: Bang Pla Soi, Chonburi
Capacity: Unknown
Most Memorable Match
TPL
Chonburi 3-2 Krung Thai Bank
21st November, 2007
Going into the penultimate game of the season, at home against our nearest rivals KTB, a win would give us the championship.
It was to be a remarkable occasion. Once again ESPN/Star Sports had despatched a film crew to record the event for prosperity and they weren't to be disappointed. Over 10,000 people, double our regular attendance, had somehow squeezed into the Chonburi Municipal Stadium and the atmosphere was (oh, go on) electric. The match certainly lived up to its billing. In spite of missing a penalty Chonburi had surged into a two goal lead by the break and were looking good to make history as the first provincial club to win Thai football's biggest domestic honour. Our chances were further increased when the visitors were reduced to ten men. It was within our grasp now. Of course, it wasn't to be that simple. Feeling that they had nothing to lose, KTB threw everybody forward in an effort to salvage something from the game and keep alive their own faint hopes of lifting the trophy.
This new bold attacking policy paid off, and soon not only were they level but they were looking the likelier side to go on and win it. With my nerves, and those of 10,000 other Chonburians, in tatters the coolest man in the ground, Pipob On-Mo took it upon himself to put us all out of our misery by firing home a late winner. The crowd erupted and the celebrations began in earnest with firecrackers and flares being let off in every part of the ground. The final whistle prompted a good natured pitch invasion and we had done it. A fitting end to what had been a wonderful season.
4. Chonburi Stadium
Home: 2011-present
Location: Samet, Chonburi
Capacity: 8,680
The Stadium
Outside the main entrance
My seat (top tier)
The view from my seat
At the end of a long, emotional and enjoyable day
Most Memorable Match
LEAGUE CUP
Semi Final 2nd Leg
Chonburi 3-2 PEA
Saturday 1st October, 2011
In a stormy* match, PEA stunned the hosts after just three minutes when Suchao Nutnum headed the ball home for an early lead.
PEA were leading 2-0 on aggregate as Chonburi needed three unanswered goals to progress.
Guston Silva made it 1-1 on the night in the 25th minute but 60 seconds later, Chonburi were reduced to 10 men when Kenneth Akpueze was dismissed as the referee thought he elbowed Frank Acheampong but replays showed Akpueze did nothing and that Acheampong had feigned injury.
But Chonburi fought spiritedly and Pipob On-mo gave the Sharks a 2-1 lead to then make it 2-2 on aggregate.
In the second half, several players of both sides were booked before, in the 70th minute, Franck Ohandza scored an equaliser for PEA. Pipob made it 3-2 and Ney Fabiano nearly became the hero for the Sharks when his header was saved by goalkeeper Sivaruk Terdsungnern.
Tor Chittinand
The Aftermath
*"Stormy" doesn't really cover it. It was a super-charged occasion and the sense of injustice - caused by some very debatable refereeing decisions - spilled over onto the car park following the match. Home fans surrounded the PEA bus and the visitors were locked inside their dressing room for well over ninety minutes after the final whistle.
Emotions were running high and, in the absence of any real security, only the actions of some of the more level headed Chonburi supporters prevented a major incident. However, as there'd also been similar scenes at the league meeting between the two sides a few weeks earlier, we received a heavy fine and had to play our next two home games at neutral venues - the first with none of our fans allowed to attend.
On the pitch, this was one of the best performances I've ever seen from a Chonburi team. The fact it was against all the odds, and we came so close to pulling off an unlikely victory, made it even more impressive. Whilst I'm not condoning what happened outside the stadium, there's no doubt that these events contributed to a remarkable and memorable evening. It's unlikely we'll ever see anything quite like this again. Which is a huge shame.
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