NEW!! Advent Calendar: 2020

For this year's Advent Calendar I will be listing the 24 things I love most about Thai football.

Window #24

24th December

Chonburi Football Club

How could I compile a list of the 24 things I love most about Thai football and not include my own club? Admittedly, we've had a rocky relationship recently and they can infuriate the life out of me, both on and off the field, but I love them dearly. They have given me so much pleasure over the past 20 years - including the occasional glorious triumph - and the good far outweighs the bad. I have enjoyed every minute of the rollercoaster ride we have been on together and, as I write this, I am missing them like mad. I would give anything to be able to walk down that familiar approach road again and see the Chonburi Stadium floodlights come into view. Hear those comforting match day sounds and see those friendly, smiling faces filled with anticipation - or looking world weary, depending on how long they've been a fan! Meeting with mates, drinking Chang and waiting for kick off. It gives me a warm glow just thinking about it. Going to watch your team play is one of the most wonderful experiences anyone can have. There is nothing quite like it and there is no club quite like Chonburi Football Club. For they are My Club.

Window #23

23rd December

The bloggers etc

When I first moved to Thailand in 1997, it was virtually impossible to find any information on the local leagues - even in Thai. A situation that is hard to imagine nowadays, when when every scrap of news can be found at our fingertips. So, for our penultimate entry in this year's advent calendar, I'd like to salute the bloggers, webmasters, Tweeters and podcasters, who keep us all up to date - in English - with the events on and off the field. All of these people do a fantastic job to make sure we don't miss out on any juicy tidbits, no matter how small or seemingly inconsequential - "Somchai Supersombat has a blister on his toe!" "Newin Chidchob has bought some new shoes" etc. It is always pleasing to read and hear all the different opinions about the game we love from such spirited amateurs, with a passion for promoting the TPL and beyond. It's certainly come a long way from those humble beginnings, when a few of us obsessives discussed similar minutiae on the Thai Football Webboard, back in 2008. Thank you, everyone. Long may it continue!

Window #22

22nd December

The Thailand national team

Before I started supporting Chonburi in 2002, the only real live football fix I got was watching the Thailand national team. I had some wonderful times following those sides during my early days in the country. Indeed, a couple of my favourite memories include the World Cup qualifying run and the 1998 Asian Games quarter final against South Korea - when Peter Withe's magnificent group of players won 2-1 with nine men. What a night that was! I have continued to go to games over the years (until the ridiculous ticketing policy was introduced!) and still love the way the 'War Elephants' unite the fans and engender a real sense of belonging and togetherness. I can only imagine the hysteria it would create should they ever win a major trophy or reach the World Cup finals. Let's hope I live to see the day!

Window #21

21st December

Thai football grounds

Football grounds in Thailand vary widely. There are those that are modern and purpose built, those that are ramshackle and showing their age, those owned by local authorities that were constructed from a standard design and those that are glorified farm fields. But every single one has a unique charm. Whether you prefer sitting undercover on plush seats with plenty of leg room and a good view of the pitch or standing exposed to the elements on crumbling concrete steps with the action so far away you might as well have stayed at home watching on TV, there is something for you. If you hate grounds with running tracks and like to be right on top of the action or don't particularly mind being separated from the match by eight lanes of synthetic rubber, you'll find what you're looking for. However you look at it, Thai stadiums offer something for everyone and I love every single one of them.

Window #20

20th December

Being able to eat and drink (including beer) inside the stadiums

At the start of this season, the club management made the decision to lift the food and drink ban at Chonburi Stadium. Put in simple terms, this is the best thing to happen at our football club in a very long time. The fact we can now eat and drink in our seats, whilst watching the action on the pitch, has made our home a happy place again, and brought us in line with pretty much every other ground in the league. For too long we were denied this pleasure, by a stubborn top brass, who were still "punishing" us for a couple of incidents that happened a decade ago. Ridiculous. However, all is now right with the world and, once again, we can enjoy a bite to eat and a few scoops at the match, and I can add it to my list of the things I love most about Thai football. Thank you!

Window #19

19th December

The welcome you receive as an away fan

Going to English league grounds as an away fan has always been a hairy experience, especially in the 70s and 80s, and something I didn't particularly relish. Therefore, I enjoy visiting opposition stadiums in Thailand for the warm welcome you receive. It's nice to be greeted by smiles and helpful locals, who are pleased that you've made the effort to visit their town and their club, rather than hostility and the feeling you're not wanted there. I know there are some that argue the lack of edge detracts somewhat from a trip to the match, but I'd much rather be asked to have my photograph taken by friendly supporters, than chased down a dark alley and given a kicking. And, if that means I've gone soft in my pld age, then so be it!

Window #18

18th December

Owners, chairmen and chairwoman

Today's advent calendar window has a slightly controversial choice behind it...it's the owners. Those esteemed ladies and gentlemen who run - and rule - our clubs, and occasionally dictate official policy. Where would we be without them? Well, in all honesty, we'd probably still have a situation where the TPL is dominated by forces and company teams based in Bangkok. OK, they're not all perfect, have their quirks and some are downright unlikebale, but without the Pangs, the Newins, the Flukes etc, Thai league football would most likely still be in the dark ages. They have managed to raise the bar and do add a splash of colour to proceedings. Plus, they give us hours of enjoyment with their crazy, self centred antics...and that is surely something to be grateful for!

Window #17

17th December

The madness

Oh, Thai football can be frustrating. Very frustrating. It can make you tear out your hair, question your sanity and wonder why on earth you bother with all the madness. But perversely, all the things that annoy you about the local game also draw you to it. The sheer craziness is what makes it so appealing. Forget what happens on the pitch - VAR, the foul throws, the decisions clearly favouring one team etc - and off it - late fixture changes, nutty TV scheduling and players allowed to miss matches to take part in celebrity boxing bouts etc etc - because everything surrounding our league, in all its gory glory, is well worth you investing time and effort. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. And, honestly, would you really want it any other way?

Window #16

16th December

Feeling a part of the local community

Many foreigners who move to Thailand to work or retire seem to prefer a lifestyle that keeps them in their own little bubble. They'll socialise with their colleagues and often live in the same villages, where they're never far away from shops that sell Marmite and Walkers crisps or restaurants that serve a Sunday Roast. There's nothing wrong with this of course, but it does feel as if they are missing out. Supporting your local football team is a good way of connecting with your immediate community and forming a bond with people you wouldn't usually meet. The growing number of ex-pats seen at matches these days is very encouraging and shows that more and more of them are making an effort to connect to their adopted home, on at least one day a week. And surely this is to the benefit of everyone.

Window #15

15th December

Travelling on the fan club bus

Admittedly I haven't done this for a few years, but in the early days of following Chonburi, riding on the fan club bus to away matches was my only option. And what a joy it was. More often than not the trips would begin at a ridiculously early hour, regardless of the distance we were about to travel, and many of my fellow fans were already three sheets to the wind before we set off. Needless to say, this always made for a lively excursion! Other than the drinkers, the passengers would include families, older people, couples and groups of young ladies. It was a nice, friendly mix and there was rarely a dull moment as the drinking continued. There were also illicit card games, violent kung fu movies and Thai comedies playing on the video machine, sing songs and numerous stops for food. Oh, how I miss it!

Window #14

14th December

Meeting with mates who support opposition teams

Following on from yesterday's entry here's another of Thai football's great pleasures. Over the years I have met many fans of other clubs - mainly on social media - and it has been an absolute joy to become friends in the "real world" too. There's always a flurry of online activity when we know our two teams will clash so we can arrange how and where to liaise for a pre match beer or two. The chat is always good natured and - as before - the game is rarely mentioned as we often prefer to discuss obscure cricketers from the 60s and 70s and classic sitcoms. The post match drinks usually involve an effort to cheer up the loser by buying them drinks for as long as they care to/are able to stick around.

Window #13

13th December

Meeting with mates

If I was putting these in any sort of order, then this would almost certainly be at number 1. There's nothing like going along to a match and meeting up with your mates, especially if you haven't seen them for a couple of weeks. And how long does the close season feel without them?! Those pre match gatherings over a few cold drinks, when you put the world to rights and discuss every topic under the sun - ususally without even mentioning the game you've come to see - are precious. As are the half time chats and full time post mortems - when you do occasionally talk about what you've just watched. I've made so many good friends over the years, thanks to Chonburi FC and, for me, the social aspect of going to the ground to see your friends is one of the biggest parts of being a football fan. Altogether now, "I'll be there for you...".

Window #12

12th December

Knowing that most of the players are keen, honest lads who enjoy playing football

Sure, there are some Big Time Charlie wannabes and a few of the foreign players I've seen over the years have pretty high opinions of themselves (My mate Ian always used to say "If they were as good as they think they are, they wouldn't be playing here."), but the vast majority of those who ply their trade in the local leagues are good honest lads who clearly enjoy the game. There have been plenty of examples at Chonburi - I won't name names - of footballers who weren't necessarily gifted, but had a passion for the sport and always tried their best. As a fan, I don't think you could ask any more than that. A large percentage were (are) decent human beings off the field too. And, as long as these guys outnumber the other kind, I'm happy to keep following Thai football.

Window #11

11th December

Knowing you'll be warm and dry (mostly!) in the stands

OK, there are times when - usually as an away fan - you're exposed to the elements as a tropical storm rages and you wish you were anywhere else. However, for the most part, you know that a trip to watch football in Thailand will be a pleasant experience because you will be warm and dry. T-shirts, shorts and flip flops are most certainly all you'll need to wear as you bask in the heat, enjoy a few cold drinks and watch the action. Believe me, this is a wonderful feeling, especially as I grew up on the terraces at Boundary Park, which is universally considered to be the coldest ground in the UK. Additionally, it is comforting to know that after visiting a TPL (other leagues are available) stadium you won't come away fearing that your fingers, toes, ears, nose or any other body part will drop off due to frostbite. I never want to hear anyone complaining that it's "too hot"!

Window #10

10th December

Being able to take a non football fan to a match knowing they'll enjoy it

Over the years it's been my pleasure to introduce many people to the joys of Thai football. And a fair number of these weren't fans of the game. However, every single one of them has enjoyed it. Most went along with very little idea of what to expect - and some were even apprehensive - but after a couple of hours at the ground, they came away feeling elated. It is fair to say that the action on the pitch often came quite low down in what contributed to their enjoyment, with the atmosphere and friendliness of the fans being the main attraction. Still, it's always satisfying when you can give people memories that they will cherish for a lifetime, even if they can't remember the result or who was playing.

Window #9

9th December

The rare opportunity to rant and rave in public

It is the perceived wisdom that losing your cool in Thailand, or showing any emotion in public, is bad form. No matter how frustrated you are or how badly you feel you have been treated, it is advisable to remain calm and keep smiling - jai yen, yen. And, as a foreigner, you are under even more pressure to maintain decorum and not upset your hosts. Thank heaven then for football. Those of us who regularly attend know we have a release valve, at least once a week. For ninety minutes we are allowed (within reason!) to shout and scream and question authority. It is very liberating and I'd heartily recommend it. Even if you're not a football fan, the opportunity to get rid of all that pent up anger should be grabbed by both hands. You'll feel so much better for it.

Window #8

8th December

The banter on social media

Social media can be a cruel and heartless place. Somewhere anynonymous bullies can make people's lives a misery. I've never really understood what pleasure someone can get from being mean to others in this way. It takes a "special" kind of person to be like that. Thankfully, those of us who post about Thai football - certainly on Twitter - are above such nonsense. Sure, there have been one or two notable exceptions over the years, but I don't want to dwell on them. Instead, I'd like to focus on the grown up way we have all been able to disagree and even trade friendly insults without it ever overstepping the mark or becoming personal. I've made lots of really good friends through internet discussions and, although we don't see eye to eye on everything - Buriram Utd's owner, for example - these are the kind of folks I enjoy sharing time with in the "real world" too - I've even bought some of them a beer or two! Long may it continue. 

Window #7

7th December

The accessability of players, coaches and club staff

During the course of my time running independent websites and blogs, I've been lucky enough to interview hundreds of people connected to Thai football. Players, coaches, fans, backroom staff, Thailand national team bosses, TV presenters, journalists and even club chairmen have all happily given their time to answer my questions - and, in some cases, entertain me in their homes or places of work. I've always felt extremely lucky to have these opportunities and it never fails to impress me just how amenable and cooperative everyone has been. It's hard to imagine that I'd have the same access to Pep Guardiola, Gareth Southgate or Daniel Levy, and for that, I am eternally grateful. So, I'd like to take a moment to say a huge THANK YOU to everyone who has made themselves available to be put on the spot by me. It is much appreciated. 

Window #6

6th December

The atmosphere inside the ground

Even though the atmosphere inside Chonburi Stadium is largely sedate these days, there have been times when the place was rocking - most notably for the AFC Cup ties and League Cup matches against our friends from the north east. However, it has never come close to the mania we used to see at the old Municipal Stadium, or on away days when the travelling Sharks support made up 90% of the total crowd. Those occasions rank as some of my favourite experiences watching football. It was always a riot of colour - without ever threatening to break into an actual riot - and the firecrackers and flares, which were going off throughout the 90 minutes, certainly kept you on your toes. Even Peter Reid commented on the fervour of our fans when I spoke with him before a game against Bangkok University, in 2008. Oh, how I miss it!

Window #5

5th December

The atmosphere outside the ground

Most top flight clubs will have some kind of entertainment outside their grounds on match days. From simple stalls and children's games to dancing girls and live bands. The traditionalist in me is naturally against this type of thing - and I do know some grumpy old men who don't like it! -  but in a Thai context, it really works and adds something to the occasion. It's always nice to get there a couple of hours before kick and just chill in the sunshine whilst watching all the activity going on around you, especially if you're also enjoying a few cold drinks! Sadly, it seems to have dropped off at Chonburi in recent years, and I do miss it. hopefully, we'll see it return soon, along with an upturn in fortune for the team.

Window #4

4th December

The food and drink

As someone who grew up on a match day menu of Bovril, pies and Wagon Wheels, the variety of food available outside Thai grounds is an absolute joy. There's usually a vast choice of things on sticks, things in bags, things in polystyrene boxes and things in packets. Most of it spicy and flavoursome, and always cheap. My own personal favourites include pad ga prao (with a fried egg), and squid, but I will occasionally branch out to something more adventurous (like those twirly potatoes you get at Navy). Of course, no pre match meal is complete without a few nice cold cans or bottles of Chang. These can often be bought from the same vendors or from the pop up off licences set up by enterprising away fans. Thai food - and beer - there's nothing quite like it!

Window #3

3rd December

The opportunity to go to places you wouldn't normally visit

Nakorn Pathom? Where's that?

Samut Songkhram? Why on earth would you want to go there?

Ratchaburi? Never heard of it...

I love Thailand and I've really enjoyed travelling around this great country over the past 25 years. However, there are quite a few places I probably wouldn't have visited if it hadn't been for football. Following Chonburi has given me plenty of excuses to go to some far flung, out of the way destinations which rarely feature in the guide books. And it's always been more enjoyable when I've been able to extend my trips by including an overnight stay - or even longer, in some cases. In addition, my knowledge of the kingdom's geography is now second to none. Where's Nakorn Pathom? If you really want to know, just ask. I can even point you in the direction of a couple of football grounds too. It's not just temples and beaches, you know.

Window #2

2nd December

28th January, 2006: Chonburi v Port Authority of Thailand

Cheap Ticket Prices

When I first started going to Chonburi it was free to get in. The Sports Authority of Thailand (SAT), who ran the Pro League, weren't allowed to charge admission. Therefore, when we made the big time, in 2006, I was appalled at being asked to hand over THB30 to watch our first TPL fixture. Greedy League rip off! And even though the prices have crept up over the years (especially for away fans) the average cost of watching a top flight match is still around THB200, which is an absolute bargain, and less than half of what I've been paying to watch Kendal Town (English 8th tier) recently. The last season ticket I bought - for 2019 - cost THB1,500, which is about GBP37!

Window #1

1st December

24th June, 2012: Buriram Utd 3-4 Chonburi

The quality of football

It's not always great - in fact there are times when it's downright awful - and there are lots of irritating aspects - huddles, fannying about, injury feigning etc etc - but there's nothing like being in the ground to witness a thrilling game between two sides who are fully committed. I can honestly say that some of the Chonburi matches I've attended over the past 19 seasons have been as entertaining and enjoyable as any I've ever seen in more than 50 years watching football. The passion, drama and skill level is equal to anything you'd get in the English leagues, and you can't ask for much more than that. Oh, and it's even better when you win.