by Paul Hewitt
My last visit to the best national stadium in Bangkok was as long ago as November 2007 when Thailand played Yemen in the second leg of the second round of the 2010 World Cup Qualifiers (I believe it to be the last time Thailand played at the Suphachalasai in a competitive match, but I'm happy to be corrected.). At that time the domestic game was, for the most part, about as appetizing as the shredded pork & mayonnaise filled croissant which I received on the 08:40 Korat to Bangkok bus I arrived on today.
The skytrain ride from Morchit to National Stadium was effectively a new experience for me: the last time I used the BTS I actually was a tourist in Thailand. The view of Suphachalasai and her younger brother Thephasadin from the platform of National Stadium station is a pleasing one. The two arenas lower the skyline of the area, providing much needed relief from the oppressive, hyperbolic excesses of the towering surroundings.
I arrived at the stadium at about one just as security personnel were erecting railings outside the east and west stands to segregate Chonburi and Muang Thong fans. If you want my two-pennies' worth, it was over-the-top. Yes: segregate fans inside the stadium. Yes: segregate fans outside the stadium after the game. But before the game, when everyone is in a positive frame of mind and will naturally gravitate toward their end of the ground anyway, it was unnecessary and damaging. 'Damaging' because I can guarantee you that Thai fans, whatever their club colours, will mingle happily before a game at least.
These physical barriers will put barriers in people's minds, but it looks like it will be the norm for Suphachalasai finals from now on. Thai security at public events knows two shades: non-existent or wildly over-the-top. Yesterday, it was the latter, and it was a huge shame. Think I'm being a touchy farang objecting to something which didn't bother anyone else? Then see the reaction of Chonburi fans mocking the security 'forces' with jeers of "Left. Right. Left-right-left" as they pointlessly entered the Chonburi end during the match.
Anyway, back to lighter matters. I was standing in the southeast corner of the Suphachalasai site when the Chonburi team bus arrived at about two. Those who know the ground will be familiar with the crossroads there. Now, you would expect the bus to turn left, drive behind the southern end and then do a right and so deposit its crucial cargo outside the main entrance of the west stand wherein lie the changing rooms. Instead, the bus stopped at the crossroads, the entire squad and coaching staff alighted - of course, only to be mobbed by adoring fans - the empty bus now made its way round the southern end as described, to leave the squad to strangely wander off behind the east stand. Within minutes, they all came back the way they had gone and sheepishly followed the route their passenger-less bus had taken ten minutes earlier! This time the fans let the players pass without delaying them. A few senior fans were even telling youngsters to "stand back, let them through. They have to prepare.". The younger fans duly heeded these instructions.
Without wanting to labour the point, do fans that display this much restraint and common sense need overbearing security? No. They clearly don't. As they promised they would, hundreds of Thai Port fans made the short journey from Khlong Toey to support Chonburi for the day. For me, the jury's out on their presence. On the one hand, they added colour, noise and numbers to the attendance, and, I believe, they all behaved themselves. On the other hand, most were only there because they dislike Muang Thong; not because they have a genuine affinity with Chonburi.
Personally, I feel there was a touch of self-importance in the triumphalism of their 'motorcade' arrival. As is now traditional when Thai Port play at Suphachalasai, several hundred cars and motorbikes laden with orange and blue clad fans travel simultaneously from Khlong Toey. But, of course, Thai Port weren't playing. They had their day out at the League Cup final two weeks ago. By all means come and watch the match, but personally I could have done without the 'Beep-beep! Honk-honk! Hey, everyone! Look! We're here now!' Just my feelings. I dare say no one else had a problem with it.
We squeezed into the stadium (literally: there was a crush at gate 16) just before four, again amid questionable security: I had two bottles of water confiscated but my aerosol deodorant (it was a long day!) didn't interest them, and my ticket wasn't checked. I had expected to emerge to a sea of red and blue, but the stadium wasn't as full as I had hoped. Once everyone had got in - about half an hour into the match - I put the attendance at 15,000; five thousand fewer than Muang Thong's highest gate of the season. Odd.
I'll spare you a match report: my memory shames me and my knowledge of the two teams is weaker than it should be. As you must know, Chonburi won 2-1 after extra time to become the first provincial club to win the FA Cup in the modern era (that is, since the inception of the TPL/Pro League). A fitting accolade for the first provincial club to win the TPL. Unlike the terrors I've endured getting away from the Rajamangala, the journey back was hassle-free: Skytrain to Morchit; motorbike taxi to Morchit bus station; direct bus back to the old bus station in Korat; ten-minute walk home; job done. A good day out. Well done Chonburi - about time you won another trophy. I'll see you back there next year.
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